DSVette Corvette Leather Interior Installation
Down South Vettes Custom leather interior
Would you like to really spruce up the interior of your Corvette C6? The Down South Vette leather interior is one of those Corvette Parts that you cannot resist!! This article will show you how to completely tear down the center stack and install the Down South Vette Console Lid, DSVette Shift Boot, DSVette Brake Handle, Ebrake boot, Down South Vette radio bezel, and the DSVette Center console base. The installation is on an Automatic transmission.
Before picture. Completely stock Corvette C6 interior.
After picture.
All of the parts going on in this batch. Center console base, console lid, center dash, shift knob, shift boot, brake knob, and brake boot.
I cut this piece of foam drawer liner to line the center console with.
In this picture you can see the shift knob is removed. To remove put the car in neutral, set parking brake, and turn off car. Then you twist the plastic ring shown in the picture (ring at top of the leather boot). Twist it clockwise from about 12 to 2 position. Now pull up on the shift knob and at the same time pull down on the ring. I'd same more pulling up on the knob than anything. It should pop off and you are left with the above picture.
Remove console cover. 4 Torx screws.
Remove brake knob. Phillips screw show here. Just slide the boot down and out of the way.
Now that the screw is removed just pull off the knob. To remove the brake boot just pull it off. There are 2 pressure pins and 2 notched pins.
Brake knob and boot removed.
Remove these two hex head screws.
The center dash peice is all pressure fit. It will pull back easily, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Don't pull too far, there are a lot of cables attached. There are a ton of things to unplug so I'll attempt to point them out. This is drivers side heated seat. I'm going to show all of the wire plugs, it might help to see them when you are feeling around behind the bezel to unplug them.
This is passenger side heated seat. Just squeeze the bottom middle and it pops out.
Ash try cigarette lighter.
Emergency flasher button.
Center console cigarette lighter plug.
Traction control button.
Here is a picture with everything out.
The boot needs the shift ring taken out by cutting the zip tie. The plastic ring around the shift position indicator is glued in so it needs the leather pulled away.
The leather boot is cut for the position indicator, but I think it really needs glued in.
Here is the boot with the plastic position indicator glued in. I glued it back in similar to how the factory boot was glued into it. I used some leather/fabric glue. You apply to the leather and plastic, wait a few minutes, and then both are tacky.
The center ring just slips right into the new boot. It's a pressure fit.
The position indicator ring snaps back in, the boot slips over the entire shifter base, the center ring slips back on, with light pressure push the shift knob back on, turn the center ring from 2 counter clockwise back to 12. You can see the shift position indicator is just sitting on; with some light pressure it will go back into place.
I hate to say put everything back together in reverse, but that is what you do. Put the console base on first (if you took it off to install a new one). Then snap the radio bezel back in place starting at the top. You'll probably have some trouble on the passenger side. It's all a tight fit because the new leather is a thicker product than the factory stuff. The brake boot goes on next, then the brake handle, and finally console cover.
Refinish the Corvette C5 Coupe Targa Top
How to refinish your Corvette C5 Targa Top....
I bought a used clear targa top and wanted to restore it to new condition for use on my Corvette C5 Coupe. This is what it looked like when I got it.....
All you need to refurbish the top is:
1000 grit wetsand paper
1500 grit wetsand paper
2000 grit wetsand paper
Rubber sanding block
Squirt bottle
Dish soap
Shammy
Terry towels
Porter Cable Polisher
Maguire's medium cut, Fine cut, and swirl remover
First thing I did was to remove all of the old clear coat and the oxidized plastic from the top. I just used 1000 grit and wet sanded it down. This took about 3 hours to accomplish. It was easy to tell if I was finished because you can look at a light through it and see where it was fully sanded or not. A tip for wet sanding. I used an old shammy to continually clean the surface I was sanding. This makes it easy to remove all of the material from sanding and it the surface will quickly dry so you can tell what areas need more attention.
There are two ways to finish the top from here. At this point it is ready for paint or clear coat. I sprayed a thick layer of PPG clear coat that I had laying around on it. This gives the acrylic UV protection and gives more material to polish out. It is recommended that the surface be sanded down with 600 grit, but I just kept it at 1000 because I was scared of using that course of paper on the top. The coat has stuck fine so far.
(EDIT: I got some requests for the type of PPG Clear that I used. It is Deltron High Velocity Clearcoat. DC3000)
I am not the best with a paint gun so the finish had an orange peel effect to it. I wet sanded the top again, this time with 2000 grit paper in preparation for polishing it. Looking back I should have started with 1500 grit and then worked my way up to 2000, but again, I like to start with a finer paper and just do extra work so I take off as little material as possible. When sanding for polish, always sand in one direction, then when you step up to the next grit, sand 90degrees to the previous grit. Keep sanding till you can't see the marks from the previous grit. The following picture is where I started sanding the top after paint and you can easily see the orange peel.
When you get the whole thing sanded out, you are ready for polish. I used a PC 7424 to polish it out, but any polisher will do. I started with the medium cut cleaner and worked it till all of the sanding marks were removed from the finish.
The medium cut cleaner does a good job of removing the sanding marks, but does leave the finish on the top hazy. I stepped up to a fine cut cleaner and polished out all of the haze.
Then for good measure I stepped up to the swirl remove and got a great finish on the top.
The other way to finish the top is to skip the clear coat step if you don't have access to paint gun or booth and just polish the acrylic. Step up from the 1000 grit finish to 1500, then 2000, alternating directions each time. Then polish as mentioned above.
You might also be able to find a local shop that can spray the clear for you for a good price. That way you won't have to mess with buying the clear and getting a booth and a charcoal mask to protect yourself from the fumes.
Hope this helps someone.
Halltech C5 Honeycomb MAF Straightener Installation
Instructions for the Halltech HC.125 Laminar Airflow Straightener Screen
History: In 2002, GM removed the laminar flow screen on the Z06 in an attempt to increase horsepower
from the 2001 Z06, which had the screened MAF. All LS1 motors came with the screened MAF sensor.
GM did not make any power claims for this mod, and since there were no changes at all in the MAF
tables, there is little doubt the difference was negligible.
The problems all began with aftermarket intakes, which had a predisposition to more turbulence at the
MAF wire pickup, and without this screen, some popped lean codes daily, even the Halltech STinger had
issues here.
This problem has become one of the reasons many C5 owners have stayed clear of aftermarket intakes
since this subject came up weekly on the Corvetteforum.com
Those days are over. Halltech has invented an new Honeycomb Flow Straightener, with little to no
airflow restriction, and has 50% less restriction than the C6 MAF, which makes 436 HP from the factory.
Our 1/8" (.125") honeycomb cell will not restrict flow, and you will find big time changes in your
performance, from throttle response, to mileage, less surging from turbulence, to more importantly, NO
MORE LEAN CODES.
We have sold only 8 of these to date and here are 5 testimonials hot off the press:
Installed mine today. Perfect fit. One suggestion; be very careful with the edges, as there're small
particles like flashings that can easily break off, and wind up ingested by your motor. Metal down the
cylinder is never a great idea. It would no doubt increase the unit price to make the outer circumference
encased somehow, but since I believe that this is a very effective product, the market would pay a little
more for peace of mind. All things considered, it does seem to work as advertised, and even helped
throttle response, at least on my application. Kudos.
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Here's an update on my experience to date ('03 Z06 - stock other than Corsa extreme and x-pipe)
Installed a Halltech tunnel plate, C5 venom and the flow straightener about a week ago. Clocked the
MAF to match the TB plates. Have driven the car about 300 miles. Throttle-response is better, idle is
slightly smoother, and the car sounds really angry at WOT! Seat-o-pants meter says maybe more power.
Not a single code to date. Great job on this little tweak, Jim!
6/1: Update. After driving the car on a nice 100 mile jaunt over the weekend, my throttle response on
the freeway has markedly improved. The Venom is doing its job, along with the Halltech tunnel plate for
fresh air. Still no codes after about 500 miles!
Doug
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I have installed the screen and have driven the car about 300 miles so far.
No more lean codes and no surging. I had it down to 20 mph in 4th gear
and no surge. Will keep you posted. Larry
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I have an 03 Z with a Vararam, CF power duct with silicone couplers, predator tune and Borla cat back. In
warm weather I got CELs for lean left and/or right banks almost every day. Always at very low throttle
angles, like when coming to a light, or inching along in traffic. I pulled the system apart at least four
times working to eliminate any possible air leaks.
I put the honeycomb screen in my MAF, put the system back together, once again being super critical of
possible air leaks.
I instantly, like in 50 feet, knew something was different on the first drive. The car sounded different and
the lean feeling, not quite a stumble I've always had when the engine is cold was much less. The car
drove better, throttle response and smoothness, from the time it warmed up.
I have about 6 trips to work (35 miles, mix of fast back roads and some traffic) and no CEL. The car
continues to feel and sound different as the LTFT are adjusting. Throttle response, and general
smoothness remain improved. I have noticed soot on the back of the car and tail pipes, which I've nver
seen before, possibly from when the car had not adjusted to the new readings. I'll know more after I
wash the car. and it either comes back or doesn't.
When I saw the product I told Jim that this looked like a simple fix that would work, and it does. I can't
beleive I spent so much time trying to adjust my way out of the CELs with the predator tuner, and fixing
leaks that were probably never there, with a $30 almost drop in part. I am back to the canned predator
tune, the car runs better than it has in as long as I can remember. It's like you just did a tune up,
everything is just a little bit better than it was before.
One question, how long does it take the LTFT to adjust and settle in? Is my car settled with 175 miles or
so on it? If yes, I'm perfectly happy the way it is.
I was not a Beta tester, though I asked to be. I asked to pay the original asking price and get free
shipping, and didn't get it. I paid full price, and am getting nothing in return for this review. Like the title
of the thread says, at least in my case, this simple part has ended my lean codes. Quite a simple product
that does what it's sold to do.
Mike
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I'm not a "tester", but just happened to buy one after reading this thread. I'm still reviewing the screen
(that's some work for a water jet). I disconnected the battery, and also went thru the idle relearn steps.
I've only been thru 2 cold cycles so far and can already tell some difference with reduced surging. I didn't
have any prior lean code issues, just low speed light throttle surges. Mine also sounds different, but I
also installed a Jantzer ported throttle body at the same time. I'm glad they made it so pretty so I
could just cover it all up... The first drive was wild with the idle hanging at 1200 until fully stopped, and
went thru swings down to 500 rpm, but all that mostly cleared up during the second drive. So far there's
an improvement. I didn't want to report my findings until after a couple more drives just to make sure.
Be back in a couple days.
BTW, the packaging method was great!
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Here's an update. I had been running a dual cone intake on my 02 Z06. Lean code would pop up, and live
data revealed that long term fuel trims were above 25 percent. I verified that there were no post MAF
air leaks. After reinstalling the stock air box, the LTFT's were way down. I recently installed the Halltech
screen, and reinstalled the dual cone intake. I let it idle, and drove it about 150 miles here and there
under various conditions. No lean code ever showed up, and live data shows LTFT values as 10 - 12
percent at idle, never higher. Fourth gear acceleration seems to be much more responsive, under very
similar conditions. All in all, a very good product at a very good price. I would highly recommend it!
Halltech Corvette C5 Venom Installation
Halltech Venom Corvette C5 2001-2004 Installation Instructions
Donated By Southern Car Parts (www.southerncarparts.com)
Tools Needed
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Hairdryer
- Freezer
Please note there are two different style C5 Venom Air Bridges that may come with your intake. Do not be alarmed if yours does look like the one in the pictures. You should have one of the two styles shown in the installation directions or look like the one below. There is not any performance difference between either style.
1) Completely remove your stock airbox assembly.
Remove the gray security clip from the MAF connector with a small
screwdriver. You must press down on the small, raised part of the clip
before pulling it off the connector.
Remove the connector by pressing down on its center and then pulling it
off. Tape the connector to the radiator shroud so that it is up and out of
the way.
Remove the 90 degree elbow (AIR hose) and hose from your existing OEM intake. Leave the 90 degree elbow on the hose for now (not shown correctly in picture, picture shows hose disconnected from elbow to aid in illustration).
2) Loosen the 8mm hose clamp that holds the accordion bellows to the
throttle body.
Pop-off the air bridge retainer from the rubber grommets at each side of
the OEM airbridge. See below
3) Remove the air filter and its frame from the airbox. This will allow you to
see the grommets that are keeping the airbox attached to the front part of
the car.
4) Now that you can see the attachment points, reach down near one of the
grommets and pull the front of the airbox toward the engine. Watch the
retaining pin slip through the grommet. Now repeat for the other side's
grommet.
Pull the accordion bellows away from the throttle body and remove the
OEM airbox and bridge assembly. You're halfway there!
Below is a picture of the entire stock airbox assembly removed from the car.
5) Remove the airbox hose end and the airbridge end from the MAF sensor by first
loosening the band clamps and then twisting and pulling. The airbox end will slip
out rather easily, but the airbridge end may take a bit of muscle to disconnect.
6) Take the stock MAF and place it in the freezer. Grab your new Halltech airbridge and a hairdryer. Using the hairdryer, warm the MAF end of the airbridge (end that does not have the rubber coupling on it). See below.
7) After a minute of warming, pull the MAF out of the freezer and attach the rubber coupling that came with the Halltech to the back side of the MAF (notice the airflow direction arrow on the MAF) The rubber coupling goes on the side that the arrow points too. Also make sure you line up the notch on the rubber coupling to the notch on the MAF. Lay it on a countertop or flat surface, rubber coupling down and front of the MAF facing up. (see below)
Take the warmed airbridge and slide it over the MAF, pressing down firmly until it is seated in place. You might need to warm the plastic some more with the hairdryer. The finished product should look like below.
Now to install in the car. Place your new filter (plastic removed) into the engine bay where the old filter assembly was.
9) Grab the entire airbrdge assembly and connect the MAF end to your intake manifold.
10) Using the band clamps, tighten the rubber coupling to the intake manifold.
11) Next, go to the front of the car and reaching in from under the hood, slide the filter into the other end of the airbidge and tighten the airbridge and filter together until they are snug.
12) Disconnect the clip that holds the MAF cable to the shroud, can be a little tricky as it has a little latch on it.
You should now be able to get some slack in the MAF plug and be able to plug it back into the MAF, do not forget to put the little grey locking piece back into the plug.
13) Last but not least, *****Updated 1/31/08**** There is now two versions of the Venom in the marketplace. Please pull out your air filter from the box and check on the bottom of the filter for a small hole. If you have the hole on the bottom of your filter skip this section and jump all the way to step 13A, if not continue on to step 13 skipping steps 13a and b..
13) Next remove the plastic elbow from the A.I.R hose (one you left on in step 1). You can set it aside as you will not need it anymore. Reusing the clamp that was on the hose. Insert the small filter that came with your Halltech into the A.I.R. hose and clamp into place. You can just lay the hose with the filter down by the Halltech filter.
13A) Only use step (13a and b) if you have a hole in the bottom of your air filter. Skip this step if you intake filter does not have a small hole in the bottom of the filter and came with a small air filter and one large one.
13B) Insert the elbow of your AIR hose (the one you left on in step one) into the bottom of your filter so that it looks like below.
14) That is it, clean up and enjoy the power of your new Halltech Intake.
Finished product
Corvette C5 Dash Removal and HUD Installation
For those not familiar with heads up display, You get 9 different ways to project critical info on your windshield, like speed, Tach, gas level, oil pressure, coolant temp, turn signals, high beam indicator, shift light indicator (6 Speeds) and check gages. You can control which are displayed, adjust the height of the projection on the windshield, and the intensity. Some are shown here:
Heads up display wasn't even offered until late 99, but for those who were not fortunate enough to get this way cool option here's the directions to install it yourself. It can even be retrofitted in a 97,98, Early 99, and 01 Z06 Corvette when it wasn't even an option. Its plug and play. Any confident installer can install it within an afternoon. The factory HUD cars have a special HUD windshield that is not necessary as the projections shown above are taken on my non-HUD glass in direct sunlight. Also all 97+ C5's have the pocket for the projector, and the outline for the dash to be cut.
The following are the necessary components needed HUD to work
• HUD projector - 10279814 - (GM LIST: $1,118.82) You will have to drill 2 small holes in the dash to mount it. Even the 97,'s and 98's have the seat for the projector
• HUD Projector Bezel - 10425223 - (GM LIST: $25.52) You will have to cut a hole in the dash and the bezel is there to cover the hole. Its very easy to do though because even the 97 and 98's have the cut marked out under the dash pad. The bezel simply covers the hole.
• HUD Enabled Cluster – This is a must for a 97-99 owner that currently doesn't have a HUD enabled cluster. The cluster may be HUD ready or it could have come from a HUD equipped car. If it is only HUD ready you will need a HUD switch and 11 pin wiring harness.
• HUD Switch - Part # 12198648 (GM LIST: $124.04)
• The very important 11 Pin wiring harness which is not available from GM, you will have to find a harness, or you will have to build your own using your existing harness.
There are 2 different HUD install scenario's.
97, 98, or early 99 C5's without the HUD enabled cluster - You will need to get a late 99+ Cluster. The only way to tell whether you have the HUD enabled cluster is to remove the one you have and look for the white connector in the very back. If it doesn't already have the HUD Switch you will have to install one and find a 11 pin harness. If you need a HUD enabled cluster you will have to have it programmed with your existing mileage. I've heard ~$50 to do this, but contact your dealer. You will have to drill 3 holes to mount the projector, 2 in the plastic dash support, 1 in the aluminum column support. If you use a late 99-04 cluster you will also have to move the airbag warning light located next to the fuel gauge to the location on the Tach or else the light will remain lit al the time.
Late 99-04 C5's with a HUD enabled cluster - You will need the projector, dash bezel, switch and 11 Pin from the switch to cluster. You will have to drill only 2 holes in the plastic dash support, the third is already notched out.
Tools Necessary:
• A small assortment of flat headed screw drivers.
• Very sharp razor Blades
• Something to cut the plastic under the dash pad (Dremel tool, utility knife, angle grinder etc...)
• Something to drill mounting holes (I used a right angle electric screw driver with a 1/8" conical grinding bit)
• Torx T15 driver, or bit with compatible holder to use with 1/4" ratchet.
• 7mm socket and driver
• 10mm Socket with swivel and various extensions
• 1/4 ratchet for the 7mm socket
• Needle nose pliers
• 2 #10 rubber expansion nuts available from home improvement store (Lowe's, Home depot, Ace, Etc....)
• 2 Allen Screws for the expansion nuts. With proper Allen wrench.
• JB Quick Weld or similar to affix the bezel
• Clamps or similar to hold bezel
The install is pretty basic. If you have a roadster or coupe now is a great time to open the car up. This is also a great time to move both seats all the way back to allow your self plenty of room to work. I myself just completed this modification on my own 2000 Corvette on 8/5/03 and the pictures seen here are from my own install. These instructions are for a 2000 six speed coupe
Removing the Center Console:
1)Remove the center console. To do this you will need to open the console remove the little covers in the rear of the console to access the 2,10mm nuts. Remove these.
2) Move up towards the front of the console bin. Insert a flat headed screw driver or similar to pop off the panel with the Traction Control / Active Handling.
3) Disconnect all wiring.
4) Remove the 2, 10mm nuts under the cover, at this point you need to disconnect the fuel door switch and the rear center console is ready to be removed.
5) To remove the front half you will need to remove the shifter knob, and pull out the ash tray.
5a.) To remove the shifter knob, first pry the black shift pattern diagram. Then you will need a pair of needle nose pliers or similar to pull the key out of the shaft before being able to spin the knob off. I'm assuming the A4 has a clip in the front of the knob that has to be pulled straight out before pulling off the knob.
6) There are 3, Torx 15 screws holding the front of the console in. These are located
• 1. Under the temperature sensor panel, located to the right of the steering wheel. Pop off the bezel with a flat headed screw driver. Disconnect the air temperature sensor (If equipped with the dual climate)
• 2. to the Left of the cigarette lighter
• 3. behind the ash tray 
7) At this point the center console pulls straight off. There are a few clips that still hold it in around the radio and climate control. Don't forget to disconnect the cigarette lighter by reaching around the back and pulling the connector off. With the center console completely removed, you are now ready to work on the panel under the steering column.
Preparing for Dash Pad Removal
Start by removing the Trunk release/fog light switch bezel, with a flat headed screw driver, disconnect wires. Remove the Torx 15 screw. Remove the 2, T15 screws located up top of the instrument panel directly above the steering wheel
9) Look under the dash, towards the rear and remove the 2 T15 screws. At this point you're ready to remove the lower steering column cover. Simply pull evenly towards the steering wheel; there are 2 clips that hold near the left hand upper corner.
10) You will need to remove the radio to help reach the hazard switch to disconnect when you start to remove the dash pad. Remove the 2, 7mm screws on each side of the radio and slide it out disconnecting all connectors from the back of the radio.
11) Take a flat headed screw driver and gently pry the defroster vent grill, Disconnect the sensor on the left side and twist the sensor loose on the right, now take your 7mm 1/4 ratchet and remove the 2 screws to the outsides of the defroster
12) Remove the side pillars. To do this start from the top and pull towards the rear/center of the vehicle. Move down the pillar, there are 3 clips to completely disengage the pillars.
13) You are now ready to remove the rest of the dash pad 7mm screws. There are 2 on the top on the sides of the dash pad that were covered by the pillars. There is one on the passenger side of the dash near the hinge of the door, (look at the side of the dash with the door fully open) one near where the cluster resides on the drivers side, and the rest are visible around the stereo was
15) Once all the screws are removed from the dash pad, gently pull the dash pad away from the window. Once moved enough disconnect the hazard switch connector. This is where you're going to probably want a helper. Finish pulling the dash out of the car.
Preparing for HUD installation
16) Its now time to drill the holes for the rubber expansion nuts or whatever you decided to use. I'm sure you could also use self tapping bolts if you can managed to get space between the window and ratchet. Place the projector in into its seat pushing it all the way towards the front of the car. Mark the 2 holes with a marker or whatever you can manage to get between the window. Also mark the column support on the pre 99 cars for the 3rd mount. The 99+ cars should already have the cutout for the screw to reside in. Remove the projector and drill. Once drilled, mount the projector with whatever method you chose.
17) Once the dash pad is out, you can flip it over and see where you're supposed to cut. Cut to the very edge of the sides, and about a 1/4" from the bottom (Front of dash closest to steering wheel) to provide a step for the bezel to grip the dash pad. Cut slowly, KEEP cutting device perpendicular to cut while watching where the bezel rests. This is the most time consuming part of the install. Cut little by little constantly fitting bezel until snug. Cut the foam and pad with a sharp razor blade. TAKE YOUR TIME, you don't want to know what a replacement dash pad costs!!! (My diagram is for illustration purposes only)
18) Once you have the hole trimmed to fit the bezel, fit the bezel in place and hold it with some clamps. Make sure the bezel is flush with the rear edge of the dash (side under/closest to windshield) You can choose your own method to secure it to the dash pad. I mixed up a batch of JB Quick Weld filled the holes, glued the front tabs of the bezel, removed the clamps and was done. One of my customers cut the legs by enough to use screws into the legs.
19) While your waiting for your bezel to set you can use swap your stock 97-99 non-HUD cluster with the reprogrammed HUD enabled cluster, or to add the HUD switch and wiring harness to your HUD enabled cluster. To remove the cluster from the car with the dash pad already removed you need to remove 2, 7mm screws located just below the cluster and reach behind the cluster and pinch the large grey connector while pulling, rocking or whatever else it take to get it loose.
• 19a.) If your cluster came from a car with HUD already installed, install your new cluster and move to step 20
• 19b.) If you have a HUD enabled cluster that came from a car without HUD you will have to purchase a HUD switch from the dealer and swap it with your existing dimmer switch. If you can find a factory wiring harness, just plug it in, install and move to step 20 
Putting your Vette back together
20) Congratulations take a step back and look at the mess you've created. Maybe have a drink or two, because reinstalling it all is the easiest and fastest part.
21) Plug in the main cluster harness, and now the HUD projector harness to the back of the cluster. Key the ignition on and make sure everything works. All the gauges should do they're full sweep as well as the projection on the windshield should do similar.
• Play with the intensity, make sure it gets bright, dims, disappears...
• Cycle through the page button, to switch displayed fuel level, coolant temperature, oil pressure, also hold it briefly to switch Tach on/off cycling through the different views.
• Also move the display up and down the window to make sure everything is hooked up correctly.
• If everything appears to work correctly move on to step 22. (make sure you firmly plugged in the fuel buttons on the right if you installed the HUD switch)
22) Re-install the 2, 7mm screws holding the lower cluster in.
23) Don't forget the sensor, and wire harness you disconnected from the defroster grill. Tape them up to the defroster so they will be accessible when you reinstall the pad
24) Get your helper grab the now "HUD enabled" dash pad and move it back into place. Before pushing it all the way back toward the window, make sure to hook up the hazard switch. (Forget to do this and your turn signals will not work)
25) Re-install the various 7mm screws you removed throughout, not forgetting:
• 2 under the defroster vent,
• 2 off to the side/under the pillars,
• the one on the side near the passenger hinge area.
26) Re-install the 2, T15 screws above the cluster to dash pad
27) Re-install the side pillars by starting in the bottom, and working to the top
28) Re-install the stereo with 2, 7mm screws
29) Re-install the glove box, get all the 7mm screws, and 2, 10mm bolts in loosely before tightening everything down
30) Re-install the center console not forgetting to hook up all electrical connections
31) Re-install the shift knob/selector
32) Sit back and take a look at a job well done, hopefully there will be no mysterious screws left over.
Corvette C5 Headlight Switch-Blinker Arm Removal
This write-up will show the steps involved with removing the headlight switch / blinker arm / multi-function switch assembly, either for repair or replacement. There wasn't a good picture-rich write-up that I could find so I documented my process, and maybe it'll help somebody out.
My particular problem was that when I turn on the headlights, the taillights wouldn't work and the instrument panel would not illuminate. After removing and repairing my headlight switch, I'm fully functional once again.
Tools Needed:
-Beer of Choice (to be used whenever the heck you feel like it!)
-Torx driver or keys, for the following: T15, T20, and T25.
If you are going to open the headlight switch, add T8 to the list.
-The T25 should be a one-inch bit, OR an L-shaped key with a one-inch leg.
-1/4" open-end wrench
-Diagonal cutters (optional)
-Flat-bladed screwdriver or other thin prying device
10mm socket, 4mm socket, 7mm socket, socket wrench, and 6" extension (or equivalent set of nut-drivers)
The Procedure:
In order to get to the blinker switch, we'll be removing the knee panel that goes under and beside the steering wheel; the steering column covers; and we'll loosen the center console pieces. Here's how to do all this.
0. Turn the steering wheel such that the TOP of the wheel is facing LEFT. You'll see why in step 10.
1. First, I'd recommend loosening the center console and radio bezel. This just makes it easier/safer to remove the paneling around the steering wheel I think. For a good procedure on this, check out this guide at Vette Essentials:
Beginning with step 2 in that guide, it'll show you how to remove/loosen these pieces. That guide also parallels some of my write-up here, so you can refer to that guide for additional pictures/info. Once you have those panels removed or loose, come back here and continue on!
2. Remove the trunk release switch panel by using a flat screwdriver or somesuch to pop it out of the dash panel. It's connected to a wire which easily unplugs once you pull the switch forward.
Behind this switch is a T15 torx bolt; unscrew that and set aside with the trunk switch.
3. Next, we'll unscrew the big knee panel under the steering wheel. There are two T15 torx bolts that hold it in place... unscrew those.
4. To remove this panel after having unscrewed those two bolts, you'll need to pull TOWARDS YOU from the LEFT SIDE of the panel. There are two tight clips that you need to unsnap: (red circles are where these fasteners attach; you'll see those once you pull the panel off). The blue circle is the wire that was attached to the trunk release button.
5. When you have the left half of the knee panel loose, carefully begin to work the right half of the panel free. The HVAC sensor is attached; so mind the connecting wire (red circle in below picture). It's easily disconnected; and at that point you should be able to remove the knee panel completely and set it aside.
6. Next, let's remove the steering column covers. First we'll need to remove the bottom half. It's held on by two T20 screws, located as follows:
Once those screws are out, gently pull downward on the bottom half. It will separate from the top half... they are connected at this point solely by plastic latches (red circles) and hooks (blue circle), as shown below. With some maneuvering, the bottom piece will come free. The tricky part is getting it off from and around the tilt steering lever.
7. Unfortunately I didn't get pictures of this step; but I'll try to explain the removal of the top half of the steering column: It's held on by two torx bolts from underneath. However, these are not normal torx bolts. Instead of the torx pattern being recessed like most bolts; this star-pattern is RAISED. I don't know about you, but I don't have torx equipment for those bolts. I found that a 4mm socket does the trick nicely. A six-inch extension is preferred to reach the bolts with. There will be one bolt on each side of the steering wheel. You can see them if you can get your head underneath and look up. Unscrew these bolts, and the top half of the steering column cover will come right off.
8. Now we have the headlight switch exposed, but before we remove the thing, let's tend to the wires first. To get to them easier, I would remove the metal guard that sits behind the knee panel we removed. (It's got the styrofoam on it). You'll want the 7mm socket and a 6" extension to easily do this: Insert the socket/extension through the holes (circled in red) to get at the bolts (circled in blue). Obviously, this picture is AFTER the guard has been detached but you can still see where and how to get at the bolts.
9. The wiring from the headlight switch attaches in two locations to the car: There is a large blue connector and a small black connector. You'll want to unplug both of these. They are shown below. (To detach the blue connector... push on the small tab (circled in red) and pull apart.
You may also find that the wires from the headlight switch are cable-tied together with some other wires... If this is the case, use some diagonal cutters to cut the tie away so you can fully free the wires from the headlight switch. There is another, larger clasp/cable tie that can simply be undone without cutting it through.
10. Now we can remove the part! For this step you'll need the T25 bit/driver and the 1/4 open-end wrench. here's the part, fully exposed: Note there are TWO bolts; both T25's. The one on top is easy to get at if you tilt the steering down as far as it will go. The one facing forward, however, sits behind the steering wheel.
To remove this, we'll simply use our 1" T25 torx bit and the 1/4 inch wrench to turn it from the side: Real easy!
Get these bolts removed, and you're home free.
One word of advice... when you remove the headlight switch, you may inadvertently beep your horn. The front of the switch has a small brass pin that sticks out, that... upon touching the steel disc at the base of the steering wheel, evidently makes the horn sound off. Remember playing that game "Operation" in preschool? It's rather like that!
At this point... your switch is free of the car and ready for repair or replacement.