101 Corvette Projects

A collection of Do It Yourself projects for the C5 and C6 Corvette

Corvette C5 Vararam Installation

If you have ever tried to install a Corvette C5 Vararam Intake on the Corvette C5 with the factory instructions, you are in for a real treat (instructions are terrible). Cajundude from the Corvette forum compiled much better directions to completing this daunting installation.

Tools you will need:

  • Jack,  jack stands
  • Sockets:  7 mm, 8mm, 10mm
  • Small flathead screwdriver, long flat head screwdriver
  • T30 Torx head
  • Needle nose pliers

Step 1:

Jack up the front of your car or just drive it up onto ramps.  Open your hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.

Step 2:

Removal of the factory air box assembly.  Release the latches on the air box and remove the hose connected to the driver’s side.


There is a goofy clip on the hose and the easiest way to remove that clip is to take a small flat head screwdriver and pry it in gently sliding the teeth of the clamp parallel.



Loosen the clamp around the throttle body where the stock accordion hose hooks up and unplug the MAF.  You can now remove the air bridge and filter.





Pull the lid of the stock airbox off of its supporting studs.  Pull out the two T30 Torx head studs and save in case you want to go back to stock in the future.



Step 3:

Remove the four 10mm bolts holding down the factory radiator cross support, remove it and set it aside.  Unclip the MAF wire harness from the shroud.



Step 3:

Remove the four 10mm bolts (two on each side) holding down the factory radiator cross support, remove the support and set it aside.  Unclip the MAF wire harness from the shroud.



Step 4:

Remove the air dam from underneath the front of the vehicle and place to the side by removing the two 10 mm bolts.  Now remove the access panels to the fog light area.  There is one on each side and each one has five 7mm bolts.

Corvette intake


Corvette Vararam Intake

Step 5:

Remove the fan/radiator/condenser shroud.  There are seven 7mm bolts holding this in.  There are 5 across the front bottom of the car and one on each side.


You will also have to disconnect two plugs and a mounting spot for another.



After you disconnect the plugs you will find that there are two more clips, one on each side of the cover around the lower middle area that are white in color.  To get these off, use a long flathead screwdriver and pry between the middle of the shroud and there mounting spot.  They will pop out of there places and you will remove them from the shroud later.  Remove the shroud from the vehicle.  I found it easy just to pull it up from the top.


Step 6:

Unclip the wiring harness from the bottom of the bezels.  These clips will come out without breaking.  Just squeeze the back side of the clips and push through.


Pull the brake cooling ducts away from the front of the car and push the front end of them towards the outside of the car.  This will free up some more clearance and is pretty much necessary in order to get to one of the bolts on the bezels you remove in a minute.  There is one 10mm bolt for each fog light.  Let them hang off to the side out of your way.  Remove two 10mm bolts from the fog light bezels and remove the bezels.  You will find that after you remove the brake cooling duct you can get a socket through that opening from the front to access one of the bolts easier on the bezel (see pic).


(Brake cooling duct below)



(10mm bolt for fog light below)


Step 7:

Install one of the air scoops.  I used the OEM bezel bolts here without any spacers.  On my car everything lined up perfectly.  Install the air scoop for the other side.




Step 8:

Reinstall your fog lights.  If you think they are misaligned you can do a search for the proper way to align them. Mine seemed to go in perfectly so I am not going to discuss alignment procedures.  The only difference it that the VaraRam does cover up a portion of the top of the fog light, not much, but some.


Step 9:

Take the white clips out of the front shroud with the intention of reusing them.  I took a small flat head and pryed the retainer away a little and worked it off with a pair of needle nose pliers.  Push the white pins back into their original location on the AC condenser.  You can get it mostly in and use a long flat head to push the rest of it in the hole.  Reinstall the shroud and connect all of the plugs in their original locations and replace the retaining clips on the white pins.



Step 10:

Install the VaraRam filter and push it in all the way until it looks even.  This filter goes in with the screen side facing the throttle body.

Step 11:

Pull the elbow out of the stock air box along with the grommet and install it onto the VaraRam box.  Put the grommet in first.  This is a compression fitting so it is difficult to get both in at the same time.  Replace the hose clip you took off earlier.  This simply clicks together now you don’t have to run the teeth parallel to put it back on.  Put on the VaraRam box.



Step 12:

Replace the radiator cross support.  Replace the air bridge, plug the MAF back in and replace the battery cable and you are good to go!



VaraRam suggests around a 45 minute drive at speeds above 55mph to get the PCM to program itself for the extra air.  Alternatively, about three passes at the strip.  This intake yields EXCELLENT RESULTS!

Courtesy of Cajundude from the Corvette Forum

2 Comments

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  1. Pingback: BRYAN
  2. hey. i installed a vararam system on my c5 a while back, and it seems the air filter fits loose in the box.does the filter go in the top half of the box or does it sit on the bottom half where the scoops come up and then the top goes on. it just don;t seem like a tight fit.

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