Corvette C6 Braille Battery Relocation to Rear of Car
Here are a few pics and step by step installation of a Braille Battery with relocation to the rear of the car (like the Z06)
You will need a
Battery: Braille B2317R
Moroso battery cable kit 
This is where the fun starts, remove that old heavy ass battery 
comparing both batteries 
There are (4) 13mm bolts inside the battery tray loosen and remove
remove from inside your fuse box the 13mm nut ,remove the cable and follow it to your starter ,this is your original positive cable. Do the same steps for your negative cable. 
put the 1 gauge ground wire together which mounts to the frame and the engine block 
a little heat wrap for protection
use the same mounting bolt and location for the new ground cable
mounting the other end of the ground cable to the block, it's a 15mm bolt 
Now on to the power wire, remove the rear wheel liner 
Fish the 1 gauge wire thru the rocker panel 
connect the positive power cable to the starter 
Original Battery 34.2 lbs
Braille Battery 17 lbs
Odyssey bracket that had to be cut down an inch 
marked holes with a sharpie 
Original equipment
Battery = 34.2 lbs
Battery bracket = 1 lbs
Battery harness = 1 lbs
Total = 36.2 lbs
Battery Relocation Mod
Braille Battery = 17 lbs
Custom Battery Bracket = 0.8 lbs
14 feet of Cable = 5.2 lbs
terminal ends,bolts,nuts,etc = 0.7 lbs
Total = 23.7 lbs
36.2 lbs-23.7 lbs = 12.5 lbs weight reduction
How to Change the Rotors on a C6 Corvette
******
FRONT:
******
Remove the wheel. To remove the rotor you need to remove the caliper and the bracket. There are 2 bolts for the caliper (top smaller bolt circled on the left), and 2 for the bracket (top larger bolt circled on the right).
HINT - You gain a lot of space to access these bolts if you turn the steering wheel opposite the side you are working on. If you don't do this you are going to have difficulty getting the bolts out (especially the ones holding the bracket) and then torquing them on reassembly - the bracket bolts torque to 125 ft/lbs!
Before you start in on the caliper, find something to rest it on when you remove it from the bracket. It is NOT a good idea to leave it hanging by the brake hose.
Some people hang the caliper using wire or a coat hanger, but I always found it easier to just use a small box slid under the wheelwell.
Once the caliper bolts are out, rest the caliper on the box so it's not straining the brake hose.
Now remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket (circled above). Notice how much more room you get by turning the wheel - you should be able to get in there with a long ratchet, breaker bar, or impact gun.
Pads do not have to be removed - they will come out with the bracket. If they fall out just reinstall them on reassembly.
With that out of the way you need to remove the 2 retaining rings that hold the rotor onto the studs. These are used to hold the rotor on during manufacturing, they are not needed now.
I just pry up on one end so I can grab it with needlenose pliers and twist it to snap it off.
At this point you *should* just be able to pull the rotor right off. If not, try using some penetrating oil between the hub and rotor giving it time to work.
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the pistons in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the fronts are done.
******
REAR:
******
It's actually the same process as the front except you don't have the luxury of turning the wheels to allow access. The caliper bolts should be easy, but the brackets can be a challenge.
If access with your long ratchet is a problem (as in it will not fit in the wheelwell) raise the rear of the car enough so you can get at these bolts from the bottom. And REMEMBER to use jack stands!
Same set of bolts we did on the front, located here on the rear caliper (I had loosened one already).
Remove the caliper and set it aside.
Remove the bracket bolts.
Remove the retaining clips and discard.
Slide rotor off. Again, it may be stuck
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is again just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the piston in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the rears are done.
The whole process took a few hours. I changed pads while I was at it and, since there seemed to be a light oily residue on the rotors, I washed them in some dish detergent before installing.
I would have usually just used brake cleaner but Baer recommends no harsh chemicals....and if brake cleaner isn't harsh, I don't know what is.
Caveats
1) GM states NOT to reuse the caliper bracket bolts. The new ones will come with "adhesive" already applied.
2) I was changing out pads at the same - if you are not doing so you might want to skip the removal of the caliper to the bracket, may save you a few steps.