101 Corvette Projects A collection of Do It Yourself projects for the C5 and C6 Corvette

19Jan/110

Installing a Corvette C6 ZR1 Carbon Fiber Splitter

Thanks to Gene I finally got a ZR1 splitter to put on my Katech Z. I thought I'd document the installation process with lots of pictures for folks like me that need pictures. I'm assuming that you're going to install the support brace that goes behind the front fascia as well. The first step is to remove the front fascia, this also makes an excellent time to install a front tow hook like the removable one that Phoenix Performance sells. Start by putting the car up in the air and removing the front wheels. You could do this entire procedure on jack stands but I had a lift. I put some painters tape along the top of the front fascia and where it meets the fenders on either side. I found the last time I did this those areas are prone to get scratched or scuffed if you aren't careful. Especially the top of the fascia when you go to put it back on. Pop the hood and remove the four 7mm head screws at the front of the engine compartment that hold the fascia to the support. Unhook the two tabs in the same area In each wheel well first remove the five T-15 screws Then the 3 push pins to loosen up the wheel well liner Peel back the wheel well liner then disconnect the turn signal bulb by turning then pulling the bulb and wire out. You also need to disconnect the fog lights from the wires. Remove the two 10MM nuts holding the fascia to the fender. Under the front bumper remove two 10mm nuts (these are the silver ones with integrated washers Remove the five center 7 mm screws (really 3 in the center and one on each side slightly back and set in a well). With the 3 center screws removed you can now pull the flexible flap back and see up in to the area behind the grill. Right above where the flap is and off to either side is a push pin (these are the kind you need to pry out rather than those with a removable center). Use a screwdriver or better yet the proper tool to remove these push pins. In the same area on one side you will see that the plastic trim has a slot with a pin through it. Pull the trim piece toward you and unhook it from the pin. I couldn't get a good picture of this area due to space constraints so here's where the push pin was after I pulled the fascia out. At this point the fascia is almost free. Make sure hood is open and lift up the part of the fascia under the hood where you previously removed the four screws and the tab. On the far corners of this same area the fascia will still be held in place by a metal clip that snaps in to a slot in the fascia. Just grab the fascia all the way in the upper corner by the headlight and pull straight up. The fascia should pull out of the clip. Do the same on the other side. Here's what it looks like once it's unclipped At this point make sure the fascia is off of the studs connecting it to the fenders, make sure the brake duct pieces are out of their slots, and just lift a bit and pull the entire fascia off as a unit. If you missed a step you'll know it now so go slow and if you feel something caught go see what you missed. I'll also note that it's a tight fit to clear the part where it goes under the front of the hood. You might have to experiment with closing the hood first but make sure you don't pinch the fascia when closing the hood. Here's what the removed fascia looks like from the back Remove the push pins inside the grill and pull the grill out the front. Here's a couple pics of the new splitter as well as a comparison of the two. Here is the new support piece that goes inside the front fascia and becomes the new mount point for the splitter. At this point I removed the two plastic reinforcement pieces already inside the fascia. The new support goes in front of them and while you might be able to wedge it around them I thought it best just to remove the existing pieces and then put them back after the new support was in. The first support is held on with two push pins and four 7mm screws. Then there are two more screws on each side holding the last support to the fascia. Here is a quick pic of those pieces removed. The new support just drops in around the grill opening. I had just set the whole fascia on the couch in the garage to work on so it didn't get scratched up. Now remove the 7mm screws that are holding the old splitter on and remove all but the 3 outer clips since you will be screwing directly to the support now. Go ahead and line up the new splitter and start screwing it to the clips. There are four clips in locations from the original spoiler that you will no longer use and four new ones with holes already in the new splitter and the support (with clips). The new holes are on either side of the openings in the splitter.

I went ahead and installed all the screws I already had holes for as this made sure the support and splitter were already aligned. Then I drilled out the fascia for the four remaining and installed them. As the saying goes installation is the opposite of removal. Just like with removal getting the top of the fascia under the front of the hood is a bit tough but doable. This is why I used the masking tape to keep from scratching it. Also if you're having trouble getting the rest to bolt up make sure that you're clear of the foam bumper support. I wasn't and had to reach up from underneath to lift the fascia over the foam bumper. Here are a couple pics of the finished project. When we get some decent weather and I can get out in the daylight I'll take some better pictures and post them. You'll notice that I also added the RPI painted ZR1 spoiler. Now I just need those sided skirts. Thanks to "Dreamin" from the Corvette Forum for this contribution.

27Nov/092

Refinish the Corvette C5 Coupe Targa Top

How to refinish your Corvette C5 Targa Top....

I bought a used clear targa top and wanted to restore it to new condition for use on my Corvette C5 Coupe.  This is what it looked like when I got it.....


All you need to refurbish the top is:
1000 grit wetsand paper
1500 grit wetsand paper
2000 grit wetsand paper
Rubber sanding block
Squirt bottle
Dish soap
Shammy
Terry towels
Porter Cable Polisher
Maguire's medium cut, Fine cut, and swirl remover

First thing I did was to remove all of the old clear coat and the oxidized plastic from the top. I just used 1000 grit and wet sanded it down. This took about 3 hours to accomplish. It was easy to tell if I was finished because you can look at a light through it and see where it was fully sanded or not. A tip for wet sanding. I used an old shammy to continually clean the surface I was sanding. This makes it easy to remove all of the material from sanding and it the surface will quickly dry so you can tell what areas need more attention.

There are two ways to finish the top from here. At this point it is ready for paint or clear coat. I sprayed a thick layer of PPG clear coat that I had laying around on it. This gives the acrylic UV protection and gives more material to polish out. It is recommended that the surface be sanded down with 600 grit, but I just kept it at 1000 because I was scared of using that course of paper on the top. The coat has stuck fine so far.

(EDIT: I got some requests for the type of PPG Clear that I used. It is Deltron High Velocity Clearcoat. DC3000)

I am not the best with a paint gun so the finish had an orange peel effect to it. I wet sanded the top again, this time with 2000 grit paper in preparation for polishing it. Looking back I should have started with 1500 grit and then worked my way up to 2000, but again, I like to start with a finer paper and just do extra work so I take off as little material as possible. When sanding for polish, always sand in one direction, then when you step up to the next grit, sand 90degrees to the previous grit. Keep sanding till you can't see the marks from the previous grit. The following picture is where I started sanding the top after paint and you can easily see the orange peel.

When you get the whole thing sanded out, you are ready for polish. I used a PC 7424 to polish it out, but any polisher will do. I started with the medium cut cleaner and worked it till all of the sanding marks were removed from the finish.

The medium cut cleaner does a good job of removing the sanding marks, but does leave the finish on the top hazy. I stepped up to a fine cut cleaner and polished out all of the haze.

Then for good measure I stepped up to the swirl remove and got a great finish on the top.

The other way to finish the top is to skip the clear coat step if you don't have access to paint gun or booth and just polish the acrylic. Step up from the 1000 grit finish to 1500, then 2000, alternating directions each time. Then polish as mentioned above.

You might also be able to find a local shop that can spray the clear for you for a good price. That way you won't have to mess with buying the clear and getting a booth and a charcoal mask to protect yourself from the fumes.

Hope this helps someone.