I've only driven the car about 10 miles since the install, but I must say I really like the coilovers over the stock suspension. The first thing I noticed was how level the car stayed on hard acceleration. No more nose lifting, which is something I found very annoying. It might be a good feature for drag racing, but not for the track or autox. The steering feels much more precise now and the car has almost no lean in the corners. Enough of that, here is how to install them.

Lets start with the front (Read the Pfadt instructions first):

Jack the front of the car up and remove both wheels.

On the drivers side remove the two small nuts (10mm) that hold the coolant reservoir tank in place. Pull the tank off its mount and rotate it out of the way to expose the top mounting bolt of the shock absorber.

It is already exposed on the passenger's side. Remove the 14mm nut, rubber mount and cap from the top of both shocks. Remove the two bottom bolts (13mm) of each shock absorber, which attach to the lower control arm.

The shock absorber will be loose now, but you won't be able to remove it yet.

Remove the lower sway bar link from the control arm on both sides. You will need a #40 torx bit and 18mm wrench for this.

Now remove the four mounting bolts holding the sway bar in place and remove the sway bar (only if you are replacing the sway bar with Pfadt units).

Remove the driver side brake caliper and set it aside. If you have aftermarket brake lines that are longer than stock you may be able to skip this step.

Remove the four bolts (13mm) to the two brackets that hold the leaf spring in place.

Remove the four bolts (15mm) that hold the upper control arm to the frame on both sides of the car.

Be careful to note where shims exist and return them to the proper location.
Rotate the control arm on the drivers side out of the way as required, remove the shock absorber, and slide the leaf spring out.

Install the coilovers on both sides to the top shock absorber bracket with the 14mm nut that holds them in place from the hood side. Tighten the nut only enough to hang them in place.

Now reattach the upper control arm to the frame ant torque the bolts to spec (48 ft-lb).

Place a scissors jack under the control arm and jack it up so the bottom mounting bracket of the coilovers aligns with the bolt holes. Install the coilover bottom bolts and torque to spec (21 ft-lb).

Now tighten the upper nut on the coilover to achieve maximum compression of the poly bushing. Install the adjuster knob on top of the shocks and remount the coolant reservoir onto its brackets and secure with the 10mm nuts.

If you removed your brake caliper, re-install it.

Install the Pfadt sway bar per the instructions that came with them. Here are some pictures:

Reinstall the wheels, lower the car and you are done with the front.

Moving on to the rear:

Jack the rear of the car up and remove both wheels.

Disconnect the tie rod (toe link) from the rear of the spindle on both sides using an 18mm wrench and a 6mm Allen socket. You may need to use a ball joint separator tool to pop the tie rod from its socket. On my car, one side did and one side didn't.

Mark the drivers and passengers side camber/castor settings with a marker.

Remove the four bolts (13mm) and brackets that retain the leaf spring (same as front – see that picture).

Remove both lower control arm mounting bolts from the subframe and pivot the control arm out of the ray so you can slide the leafspring out.

Remove the shock absorber (2-13mm bolts on top and 24mm on bottom)

Install the rear coilovers: Attach the bottom coilover bolt (107 ft-lb) to the lower control arm and re-attach the control arm to the subframe, making sure you adjust the camber/castor to their original settings that were marked prior to removal. The torque settings are 107 ft-lb for the front and 70 ft-lb for the rear. Now place a jack under the control arm (see photo for front) and jack it up so you can attach the upper two 13mm bolts (18 ft-lb) to the coilover mounting perch. Reinstall the tie rod and you are done.

Hope this helps and I hope I didn't miss anything.

-Note- before hand you will need to make some ramps that are at least 3" tall so that you can remove your jack from under your car once it is lowered.

The first two pics show what the suspension looks like before anything is done.

At this point I jacked up the suspension so that I could unbolt and disconnect the upper a-arm

This pic shows after the a-arm has been disconnected and the suspension has been lowered down again.

Then unbolt the lower part of the shocks (2 bolts) and you will need a deep socket wrench to reach the bottom of each of the bolts.

Then disconnect the sway bar (next 2 pics)

Loosen the top part of the sway bar bolts to swing the bolt out of the bottom part (next 2 pics)

Finally now you can remove the lowering bolt or raise it to its highest point to cut the bushings. It has a reverse style thread pattern, so to lower the car rotate it counterclockwise. (Note to remove the bolt you may have to jack up the leaf spring to gain clearance)

(Be careful not to damage the leaf spring by using a small piece of wood to protect it)

When putting everything back together, reverse the pattern that was used to take it apart. To reconnect the top A-arm use an allen wrench when tightening the bolt to keep it from just spinning.

Optional for removing the shock absorber totally

If you can do the front, the rear is so easy I won't even have to explain it. (I also forgot to take pics ) I did mine with some longer bolts than stock to get a 2.5-3" drop in the rear.

lowered pics
Bigger Here

***New*** Lowered With bolts in front completely removed.....

***Newer*** New I-Forged wheels. I didn't have to make one adjustment to the suspension. In Fact I found out that even though the new wheels are 18/19's where the stock were 17/18's, that the new wheels are the same height as the stock wheels. This is due to lower profile tires in both the front and rear of the car.