How to change the oil on the Corvette Z06 and ZR1
Changing Engine Oil and Filter (ZO6, ZR1, and Grand Sport)
These vehicles have a racetrack‐ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high‐performance system operates differently than a standard engine
lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil
and filter.
ZO6 Shown, ZR1 and Grand Sport Similar
A. Engine Oil Drain Plugs
B. Seals
1. Remove the two engine oil drain plugs from the bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug drains the external oil tank via the oil transfer supply line.
The other drain plug drains residual oil from the crankcase sump. Allow the oil to drain.
2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.
3. Re‐install both drain plugs and tighten them to 25Y (18 lb ft).
4. Replace the oil filter and tighten it to 30Y (22 lb ft).
5. Oil is filled through the opening in the top of the external engine oil tank. Remove the oil fill cap.
6. Add 9.9 L (10.5 quarts) of oil to the oil tank.
7. Install the oil fill cap and insert the dipstick, if removed.
8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system.
9. Shut off the engine and check the oil level as described under "Checking Engine Oil (ZO6, ZR1, and Grand Sport)."
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
SAE 5W-30
SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life
System
The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it
can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on,
reset the system.
To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change:
1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE REMAINING 100% will appear.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system
has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
How to disable OnStar on a Corvette C6
OnStar in the C6 Corvette can easily be disabled if you no longer want to utilize it. Follow the steps below to turn the system off and still allow you to reinstall when it comes time to sell the Vette.
* Remove fuse (in-car fuse panel)
* Unplug J1, J2, J3 and antenna connectors from the OnStar module under the passenger seat
* Leave J4 connected on the OnStar module.
Corvette C6 Z06 Brembo GT Brake Installation
This is a fairly easy, though time-consuming do-it-yourself project... Plan on spending a full day if you work carefully and slowly. It's a basic bolt-on project, though there is a little filing that needs to be done (5 minutes worth per corner), and the only challenging part is getting a good seal between the brake hard line and new SS brake line. And plan on getting brake fluid *everywhere*. Other than that, very straight-forward.
The Brembo instructions are good, but I changed the order of the steps to minimize brake fluid spillage.
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* 2 Bottles Brake Fluid Minimum – 3 Bottles Ideally
* Blue Loctite (#242)
* 11mm, 13mm, 17mm, & 5/8" Box-Wrenches
* 10mm Hex Socket
* 11mm, 13mm & 21mm Sockets
* Suitable 3/8" & 1/2" Wrenches
* 3/8" to 1/2" Adapter as needed
* Pliers / Metal Snips
* Large Flat Blade Screwdriver
* Round Metal File
* Empty Plastic Bottle
* Turkey Baster
* Hammer - if changing brake pads (from what's shipped installed in the calipers)
* Small Nail Punch - if changing brake pads (from what's shipped installed in the calipers)
Step 1) Raise Car; Remove Wheels; Release Parking Brake
FRONT BRAKES
Pictures are of Passenger Side Front
Step 2) Remove Caliper
Turn Steering wheel to give more clearance
Use 21mm Socket and Remove Two Bolts.
Slide Caliper off and place to the side, supported by something, so the brake line is not stressed.
Back Side of Caliper, top bolt in place, bottom bolt removed:
Step 3) Remove Rotor
Use Pliers / Metal Snips to cut Rotor Retaining Washer off
Pull rotor straight off
Rotor removed with caliper on the side supported by a 2x4:
Step 4) Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket
Use 21mm Socket with Stock Bolts
Service Manual says to use new bolts; if you choose to reuse your existing bolts, clean the bolts and apply Blue Loctite.
Torque to 129 ft-lbs (175 Nm)
Torque Wrench attached to top bolt:
Step 5) Clean Rust off the Hub
Step 6) Install Rotor
It just slides on the hub
Step 7) Install Caliper
Use 10mm Hex socket and long Brembo Bolts. Thread these carefully… the threads on the bracket are easy to damage!
* Brembo Manual says that these are Self-Locking and do not require thread lock compound... so use it at your discretion *
Torque to 80 ft-lbs (115 Nm)
Step 
Attach SS Brake Line to Caliper
Use 13mm socket
Torque to 15 ft-lbs (20 Nm) – I had to tighten a little more to get them leak-free.
The line should be attached just forward of vertical (15-30 degrees toward the front of the car)
Secure other end of SS Brake line out of the way for now.
*From Brembo Manual: Do not apply sealant or thread lock to any brake line connections *
Step 9) Remove Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use Flat Blade Screwdriver and push up (vertically) on the Retaining Clip. It takes a moderate amount of force.
Screwdriver on Clip:
Clip half-way off:
Clip is reused; it fits on the Brembo supplied SS brake line perfectly:
Step 10) Disconnect Brake Hard Line from (flexible) Stock Brake Line
Pull assembly toward you a little, enough to get both box wrenches on your side of the mounting tab.
Use 5/8" box wrench on (outer) Flex Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt. This 'Bolt' is threaded into the outer Nut. The threads for this nut face toward you. Unscrew this bolt.
Step 11) Cap Brake Hard Line
*Now you have to work fast, to minimize getting brake fluid everywhere*
Pull Hard line onto other side of mounting tab and out of the way.
Use Red plastic stopper from Brembo supplied SS brake lines, and insert over Hard Line.
Note: this slows, but does not stop brake fluid from leaking out.
Step 12) Enlarge Brake Line Mounting Tab
Use Metal File and make the 'square' hole in the Mounting Tab more circular
A minimal amount of filing is required. Maybe 5 minutes +/-.
Test Fit the Brembo supplied SS brake line as needed.
Step 13) Attached Brake Hard Line to Brembo supplied SS Brake Line
Use 17mm box wrench on (outer) Brembo-Supplied SS Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt.
It should not take a lot of force to thread the brake lines together.
Torque to 13 lb ft (18Nm) - I had to tighten them very tight for them not to leak.
Step 14) Reinstall Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use back of Flat Blade Screwdriver and lightly pound Retaining Clip back on.
That's it for the Front!
REAR BRAKES
Pictures are of Driver Side Rear
Step 15) Install Rear Brakes
The procedure is identical to the front; Torque values are identical to the front. Summary Pictures:
Remove Caliper:
Remove Rotor; Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket:
Disconnect Brake Hard Line; 
File Brake Line Mounting Tab; Get Brake Fluid everywhere:
That's it for the Rear!
FLUSH BRAKE FLUID
By the time I got all four corners installed… this is how much fluid I had left!
It didn't cause any issues, just took a long time to get the system air free (2 full bottles).
Step 16) Flush Brake Fluid
Turkey Baster fluid from reservoir as needed
Use 11mm box wrench on bleed-screw
Use Brembo supplied tube
Use your own plastic bottle
Run at least 2 bottles through the system
Bleed order:
Right Rear Inner
Right Rear Outer
Left Front Inner
Left Front Outer
Left Rear Inner
Left Rear Outer
Right Front Inner
Right Front Outer
Make sure the person helping you bleed the brakes has something to do! (Because it takes a while to get the system air free and leak free)
Step 17) Verify that the brake line connections do not leak
Any leaks will become evident during the Brake flush/bleed.
The system should not leak… not even a little, tiny bit. There may be some 'weeping' from fluid caught between the threads… but have your helper press the brake pedal as hard as they can… no fluid should seep out anywhere.
If there is a leak, tighten the brake line connection. If it still leaks, open brake line connection, verify there is no debris caught in the threads and reconnect.
It took me quite a while to get one of the corners leak-free; no problems with the other three.
Step 18) Replace wheels, Lower Car
BED ROTORS / PADS
Follow the Brembo Supplied Instructions for this.
THAT'S IT
Now go enjoy your new Brembo Brakes… You're going to love them!
Cleaning Your Corvette C5 Radiator
Cleaning Your Radiator and Condenser - The Quick Overheating Fix
Source: Junkman-Digital Corvettes Forum Member
This DIY is more of a band-aid repair for those who have heating issues. It will help most and depending on what is stuffed up in your radiator/condenser area, it may help a lot. If you manage to get a lot of dirt, twigs, grass and leaves out of these areas, you will see a significant improvement. For those who have heavily modified engines, you may want to just invest in a bigger radiator.
First, a little knowledge on overheating. One misconception that runs rampant is that installing a lower temperature thermostat will cure overheating issues. This is quite far from the truth (I use to think this also). I'll give you a perfect example.
If it took you 2 hours to get to work because:
- Traffic was so thick that no one could drive over 15mph.
- The road that you took to work could not handle the amount of traffic on the road.
- Most of the people commuting on this road were not going to work, but were 90 year old gray hairs who were just out to take in the scenery.
- Your car had only 23 horsepower.
So what do you do? You go out and buy a 2009 Z06 with every horsepower option there was. Your new Vette can do 0-60 in 2.9 seconds. You leave for work in your new beast and arrive at work 1 minute later than you did in that 23 horsepower beater. Why? Because you never addressed the other variables which are more important than the horsepower of your old beater.
The thermostat simply regulates the minimum temperature of the cooling system. As the coolant heats up the thermostat begins to open at the specified temperature and allow coolant to flow through the radiator at a higher rate.
When you start your car the t-stat is "closed" (some coolant still flows by) and the majority of the coolant circulates through the block (etc...) as it comes up to temperature.
So by installing a lower temperature t-stat, it will allow the coolant to begin flowing through the radiator at a lower temp and slow the warming of the car (not hold it steady).
It will not lower the maximum temperature or operating temperatures of the system. This is a common misconception. It takes a larger radiator and/or improved air flow to lower operating temperatures when moving, and you will need to set your fans to come on sooner to lower temperatures when driving in stop and go traffic. This is true for modified engines.
If your engine is NOT modified, you need to address the problem that is creating your overheating issues, not redesign the system as you would on a modified engine. If you address the problem, your overheating issues will disappear. That I know from experience with my stock engine.
There is one disadvantage in installing a 160 degree thermostat. If you do lots of short trips in a cold climate, the car will never reach its designed operating temperature. You want the oil to get to at least 190 degrees every drive in order to evaporate any condensation in the oil.
Now that you realize that there are multiple variables that need to be addressed in order to lower your temperatures, get up under that puppy and check the radiator and the condenser for anything that may be blocking air flow. I had Jimmy Hoffa stuck in mine. Okay, maybe it was just a bag but that one plastic bag made my temperatures go through the roof. Twigs and grass clippings will do the same thing.
With all that said, let's get to work!
- Unclip the air filter retaining clamps. This is a perfect opportunity to replace the air filter with a K&N air filter. A much better filter than those crappy paper ones.
- Situate the clamps out of the way.
- Raise and remove the air bridge retaining pins.
- Loosen the screw that holds the air bridge onto the throttle body.
- Next, loosen the bolt at the other end of the air bridge.
- Now this step was a PITA for me. You want to disconnect the MAF sensor. I, for the sake of all that is ugly about Lyle Lovett could not get that plug off. I didn't want to pull too hard because I knew that breaking it would throw all kinds of codes once I started the engine. Thus, I left it connected and loosened up its harness by removing it from the clamp that holds the cable in place. You'll notice that the MAF sensor is still in place in the following pictures.
- Now you're ready to remove the radiator support which is held in place by 4 bolts.
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- Now you'll be able to see all that crap that is causing your temperatures to go through the roof.
- IMPORTANT: Forcing high PSI's of air or water into the radiator or condenser will cause the fins on the units to bend and close, thus rendering these units useless! You must use extreme care when messing around these units so that you do not destroy them!
Now here comes the fun part. You need to delicately brush the dirt off of the front of both the condenser and the radiator. I cannot stress enough how delicate you need to be. This is why I will be pulling my radiator out of the car this winter so that I can do this the right way. I may even replace the radiator with a bigger and better one. Once you have brushed as much dirt off the front of the units, use low PSI's of compressed air to blow out as much debris as possible. After you have removed as much debris as you can with air, finish the cleaning with water. You only want to blow air and water into these units in one direction.
Blowing in the other direction only causes stuff to further lodge itself into the units. Now the tricky part is finding a brush, hose, or air tool that will fit in between these units. Again, this is why I will be removing mine. There are devices out there, you just have to do some hunting for them. I just wiggled stuff around and did the best I could. My cleaning did make a difference but I still can see junk stuck in both units. Once you remove the radiator, cleaning the condenser is rather easy.
- Once you finish cleaning, do the entire engine. Then move on to the car. As you can see, I only work on mine when it's dirty!
That's it boys and girls. Get out there and drop them temps!
1997 – 2004: Corvette C5 Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure
1997 - 2004: Corvette C5 Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure
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Subject: Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure The CAC has been a very helpful resource so I thought I'd give back some pics and explanations of my first DIY repair project on my '97 yesterday. The driver side headlight actuator needed to be replaced. Decided to do it myself after c4c5's recommendations and it went without a hitch. So here are a few pics I took trying to explain the process for others that want to do this simple repair. Hope it helps.
As for all electrical work, first remove the negative lead on the battery as noted in the service manuals.
Now you can disconnect the main wiring harness (Fig. 6) and reach behind the lamps to disconnect those wiring harnesses (Figs. 7, 8). Be sure to note which one goes where. They are color coded.
I used a bungee cord to support the headlamp assembly (Figs. 9 and 11 (my wife was too busy to help). The assembly will have nothing holding it up once the actuator is removed. I made sure that the bungee didn't put too much pressure on the unit. Just enough to hold it up.
These are not the easist to get to but you can reach under the lamp assembly with your right hand to slip a 10mm socket on the inside nut of the through bolt and hold the outside bolt head with a 10 mm box end wrench using your left hand (Fig. 13). You'll have to reach around the actuator and under the headlamp assemble to get your right hand in there. I did it pretty much by feel and worked the 10mm socket wrench in there to remove the actuator bolts and the nut on the pivot arm. (Figs. 15, 14 respectively). Figure 16 shows the slotted hole on the pivot arm that will aligned with the shaft on the actuator.
Figures 17 and 18 shows the four locations for the bolts and the shaft nut for the pivot arm. |
Down South Vettes Leather Sun Visor Installation
Difficulty: 3 out of 5.
Time: Plan on about 30 minutes.
The tools used are:
A medium blade screw driver
A small flashlight may help get a better look at the work location as you start.
Let's get a look at the project. If you have a coupe, you may want to remove the roof. If
you have a convertible you may want to lower the top. This will both make maneuvering
the visor assembly easier but it will also provide you with better lighting in the cockpit for
your task.
Here are a few side by side comparison photos of the new Down South Vettes visor and how
it compares to the OEM unit you will be replacing.
The DSV unit starts with an OEM core and removes the fabric treatment and replaces it with
the same high quality leather used in each of the other interior parts
The leather treatment to the sun visor will add a little bit of thickness to the unit.
Start the installation by tipping the sun visor down towards the windshield as if you were
trying to block out the sun while driving.
Next, unhook the sun visor from the latch up on the windshield frame. Once you have done
this it may be a good time to grab your flashlight and take a look at the steps that you will
be doing next. In the picture below you will see the screwdriver placed near the slot that
you will use to release the sun visor from the pillar.
To describe the task, you need to place your screw driver up in to this slot as shown here
Now, while pressing your screwdriver up in to this slot you need to press firmly with your
left hand and using your right hand, rotate the entire sun visor assembly counter-clockwise
(counter-clockwise for the driver side, clockwise for the passenger side) back towards you
as if you were moving the lowered sun visor from the windshield to the side window. It
should only take about a quarter of a revolution of the bezel as pictured above. This
quarter turn will translate to about 45 degrees of the sun visor relative to the windshie ld. If
the windshield is 0 degrees and the side window is 90 you should end up about halfway in
between. You will feel it when it unlocks. You will see that the bezel is no longer seated
against the roof. It will look like this:
Once the bezel and the assembly are unlocked from the car you will need to pull down on
the sun visor arm to remove it from the hole. You may need to work it back a forth slightly
to free it from the car. Don't pull down too hard. Firm is fine but be prepared for it to come
loose. Now that it is loose from the car you still have the connector assembly to contend
with. You may need to reach up inside the opening to free the connector. The connector
looks like this:
To disconnect the connector you will need your screwdriver again to free the clip from the
detent on the mating connector. You can see the slot for the detent pictured below. Insert
the screwdriver in the top righthand corner and gently pry forward until the clip is above the
height of the small tab. This will allow you to pull on the connector and free the visor.
Once you have the connector disconnected it should still have the bezel attached and look
like this:
Now you need to remove the bezel from the visor assembly. If you look down at the
connector end and bezel you will notice three locking tabs on the bezel that hold it on the
visor assembly.
Using one hand to hold the visor assembly near the arm, with your other hand you need to
pull out on the three tabs to free them from the locked position on the visor assembly.
Once the bezel is unlocked it will float freely on the visor arm.
To remove, align the triangle on the bezel with the triangle on the visor arm and you can
slide the bezel up and off the visor assembly. Now just free the connector from the bezel.
Pick up the new Down South Vettes visor and take note of the shape of the locking
mechanism at the connector end. You will notice three distinct shapes to the corners of the
connector triangle.
Each corner has a different radius and will match up with a radius on the bezel as pictured
here:
Match the shape on the bezel with the same size shape on the visor assembly and slide the
bezel over the connector and down onto the visor assembly. When you first slide it on it will
look like this:
While looking from the top down as pictured above, rotate the bezel clockwise and you will
feel it lock in to place on the visor assembly. Once locked it will look like this:
With one tab of the bezel now aligned with each tab of the visor assembly. You should also
notice that the base of the bezel as viewed from the side is now flush with base of the visor
connector mount. You are now ready to put your new visor back in the car.
Grab your screw driver as you will need to reverse the steps you took to get the visor out of
the car. Place the visor up on end in your lap and re-connect the visor electrical plug:
You now need to tuck the connector back up into the frame. Tuck it up in towards the
rearview mirror side.
It's time to push the visor assembly and bezel back up in to the frame. There is only one
way for it to go back up into the car. You may need to work it a little bit to find the location
but try to remember the angle at which the visor was at when you removed it. Once you
find the slot for the latch to go into, slide it up and press it firmly in place. You will need to
hold it in place and reach for your screw driver. It should look about like this:
All that's left to do is latch the assembly back in to place. You will need to use your
screwdriver and place it back in the slot like you did to remove it. This time, place the
screw driver to the right side of the visor arm (This is for the driver's side. In either case,
place it into the slot and have the shaft of the screwdriver on the rearview mirror side of the
visor arm.) While pressing up firmly on the screwdriver rotate the visor and bezel assembly
from the arm pressing against the screwdriver blade and this will cause the bezel to rotate
and latch into place on the car. Congratulations, you've just installed your new visors.
DSVette Corvette Leather Interior Installation
Down South Vettes Custom leather interior
Would you like to really spruce up the interior of your Corvette C6? The Down South Vette leather interior is one of those Corvette Parts that you cannot resist!! This article will show you how to completely tear down the center stack and install the Down South Vette Console Lid, DSVette Shift Boot, DSVette Brake Handle, Ebrake boot, Down South Vette radio bezel, and the DSVette Center console base. The installation is on an Automatic transmission.
Before picture. Completely stock Corvette C6 interior.
After picture.
All of the parts going on in this batch. Center console base, console lid, center dash, shift knob, shift boot, brake knob, and brake boot.
I cut this piece of foam drawer liner to line the center console with.
In this picture you can see the shift knob is removed. To remove put the car in neutral, set parking brake, and turn off car. Then you twist the plastic ring shown in the picture (ring at top of the leather boot). Twist it clockwise from about 12 to 2 position. Now pull up on the shift knob and at the same time pull down on the ring. I'd same more pulling up on the knob than anything. It should pop off and you are left with the above picture.
Remove console cover. 4 Torx screws.
Remove brake knob. Phillips screw show here. Just slide the boot down and out of the way.
Now that the screw is removed just pull off the knob. To remove the brake boot just pull it off. There are 2 pressure pins and 2 notched pins.
Brake knob and boot removed.
Remove these two hex head screws.
The center dash peice is all pressure fit. It will pull back easily, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Don't pull too far, there are a lot of cables attached. There are a ton of things to unplug so I'll attempt to point them out. This is drivers side heated seat. I'm going to show all of the wire plugs, it might help to see them when you are feeling around behind the bezel to unplug them.
This is passenger side heated seat. Just squeeze the bottom middle and it pops out.
Ash try cigarette lighter.
Emergency flasher button.
Center console cigarette lighter plug.
Traction control button.
Here is a picture with everything out.
The boot needs the shift ring taken out by cutting the zip tie. The plastic ring around the shift position indicator is glued in so it needs the leather pulled away.
The leather boot is cut for the position indicator, but I think it really needs glued in.
Here is the boot with the plastic position indicator glued in. I glued it back in similar to how the factory boot was glued into it. I used some leather/fabric glue. You apply to the leather and plastic, wait a few minutes, and then both are tacky.
The center ring just slips right into the new boot. It's a pressure fit.
The position indicator ring snaps back in, the boot slips over the entire shifter base, the center ring slips back on, with light pressure push the shift knob back on, turn the center ring from 2 counter clockwise back to 12. You can see the shift position indicator is just sitting on; with some light pressure it will go back into place.
I hate to say put everything back together in reverse, but that is what you do. Put the console base on first (if you took it off to install a new one). Then snap the radio bezel back in place starting at the top. You'll probably have some trouble on the passenger side. It's all a tight fit because the new leather is a thicker product than the factory stuff. The brake boot goes on next, then the brake handle, and finally console cover.
Corvette C6 NPP Retro-Fit for Multi Mode Exhaust
NPP in a box, a set of NPP mufflers and a M2W switch will give you an incredibly easy way to have just the sound you want, when you want, if you have a pre-2008 C6. In my case, throw in a set of LG headers, and you have rolling thunder at the flick of a switch. The combo of the headers and the NPP in Wild gives you AMAZING sound and "HEY, LOOK AT ME!!!" volume…the tonality and sound is that of a NASCAR stock car at WOT outside the car, yet quieter and less drone inside the car than the GHL exhaust I was so fond of. The install is very straight forward, easier with a lift, but as Ed has shown with his car, you can do it on jack stands. Here are some pics and descriptions of the step by step process; you will receive complete illustrated instructions with your purchase.
NPP Mufflers waiting for Install
Factory Exhaust Removed
Run the Vacuum tubes through existing frame locations
After dropping the rear sway bar, snake the NPP mufflers up and over
Attach the pipes to the mufflers
Connect the vacuum hoses to the NPP mufflers
Make sure your muffler pipes are straight and level
Muffler hardware done and vacuum tubing run
And of course, a quick run with Ed's Polishing kit
That's all there is to it.....All that's left is to go out there and have a blast with your new found customized sound.