These vehicles have a racetrack‐ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high‐performance system operates differently than a standard engine

lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil

and filter.

ZO6 Shown, ZR1 and Grand Sport Similar

A. Engine Oil Drain Plugs

B. Seals

1. Remove the two engine oil drain plugs from the bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug drains the external oil tank via the oil transfer supply line.

The other drain plug drains residual oil from the crankcase sump. Allow the oil to drain.

2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.

3. Re‐install both drain plugs and tighten them to 25Y (18 lb ft).

4. Replace the oil filter and tighten it to 30Y (22 lb ft).

5. Oil is filled through the opening in the top of the external engine oil tank. Remove the oil fill cap.

6. Add 9.9 L (10.5 quarts) of oil to the oil tank.

7. Install the oil fill cap and insert the dipstick, if removed.

8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system.

9. Shut off the engine and check the oil level as described under "Checking Engine Oil (ZO6, ZR1, and Grand Sport)."

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

SAE 5W-30

SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.

Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

How to Reset the Engine Oil Life

System

The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it

can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on,

reset the system.

To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change:

1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.

2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE REMAINING 100% will appear.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system

has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

* Remove fuse (in-car fuse panel)
* Unplug J1, J2, J3 and antenna connectors from the OnStar module under the passenger seat
* Leave J4 connected on the OnStar module.

Source: Junkman-Digital Corvettes Forum Member

This DIY is more of a band-aid repair for those who have heating issues. It will help most and depending on what is stuffed up in your radiator/condenser area, it may help a lot. If you manage to get a lot of dirt, twigs, grass and leaves out of these areas, you will see a significant improvement. For those who have heavily modified engines, you may want to just invest in a bigger radiator.

First, a little knowledge on overheating. One misconception that runs rampant is that installing a lower temperature thermostat will cure overheating issues. This is quite far from the truth (I use to think this also). I'll give you a perfect example.

If it took you 2 hours to get to work because:

1. Traffic was so thick that no one could drive over 15mph.
   
2. The road that you took to work could not handle the amount of traffic on the road.
   
3. Most of the people commuting on this road were not going to work, but were 90 year old gray hairs who were just out to take in the scenery.
   
4. Your car had only 23 horsepower.
   

So what do you do? You go out and buy a 2009 Z06 with every horsepower option there was. Your new Vette can do 0-60 in 2.9 seconds. You leave for work in your new beast and arrive at work 1 minute later than you did in that 23 horsepower beater. Why? Because you never addressed the other variables which are more important than the horsepower of your old beater.

The thermostat simply regulates the minimum temperature of the cooling system. As the coolant heats up the thermostat begins to open at the specified temperature and allow coolant to flow through the radiator at a higher rate.

When you start your car the t-stat is "closed" (some coolant still flows by) and the majority of the coolant circulates through the block (etc...) as it comes up to temperature.

So by installing a lower temperature t-stat, it will allow the coolant to begin flowing through the radiator at a lower temp and slow the warming of the car (not hold it steady).

It will not lower the maximum temperature or operating temperatures of the system. This is a common misconception. It takes a larger radiator and/or improved air flow to lower operating temperatures when moving, and you will need to set your fans to come on sooner to lower temperatures when driving in stop and go traffic. This is true for modified engines.

If your engine is NOT modified, you need to address the problem that is creating your overheating issues, not redesign the system as you would on a modified engine. If you address the problem, your overheating issues will disappear. That I know from experience with my stock engine.

There is one disadvantage in installing a 160 degree thermostat. If you do lots of short trips in a cold climate, the car will never reach its designed operating temperature. You want the oil to get to at least 190 degrees every drive in order to evaporate any condensation in the oil.

Now that you realize that there are multiple variables that need to be addressed in order to lower your temperatures, get up under that puppy and check the radiator and the condenser for anything that may be blocking air flow. I had Jimmy Hoffa stuck in mine. Okay, maybe it was just a bag but that one plastic bag made my temperatures go through the roof. Twigs and grass clippings will do the same thing.



With all that said, let's get to work!

1. Unclip the air filter retaining clamps. This is a perfect opportunity to replace the air filter with a K&N air filter. A much better filter than those crappy paper ones.
2. 
3. Situate the clamps out of the way.
4. 
5. 
6. Raise and remove the air bridge retaining pins.
7. 
8. Loosen the screw that holds the air bridge onto the throttle body.
9. 
10. 
11. Next, loosen the bolt at the other end of the air bridge.
12. 
13. Now this step was a PITA for me. You want to disconnect the MAF sensor. I, for the sake of all that is ugly about Lyle Lovett could not get that plug off. I didn't want to pull too hard because I knew that breaking it would throw all kinds of codes once I started the engine. Thus, I left it connected and loosened up its harness by removing it from the clamp that holds the cable in place. You'll notice that the MAF sensor is still in place in the following pictures.
14. 
15. 
16. Now you're ready to remove the radiator support which is held in place by 4 bolts.
17. 

1. 
   
2. Now you'll be able to see all that crap that is causing your temperatures to go through the roof.
   
3. 
   
4. IMPORTANT: Forcing high PSI's of air or water into the radiator or condenser will cause the fins on the units to bend and close, thus rendering these units useless! You must use extreme care when messing around these units so that you do not destroy them!
   
   
   Now here comes the fun part. You need to delicately brush the dirt off of the front of both the condenser and the radiator. I cannot stress enough how delicate you need to be. This is why I will be pulling my radiator out of the car this winter so that I can do this the right way. I may even replace the radiator with a bigger and better one. Once you have brushed as much dirt off the front of the units, use low PSI's of compressed air to blow out as much debris as possible. After you have removed as much debris as you can with air, finish the cleaning with water. You only want to blow air and water into these units in one direction.
   
5. 
   
   Blowing in the other direction only causes stuff to further lodge itself into the units. Now the tricky part is finding a brush, hose, or air tool that will fit in between these units. Again, this is why I will be removing mine. There are devices out there, you just have to do some hunting for them. I just wiggled stuff around and did the best I could. My cleaning did make a difference but I still can see junk stuck in both units. Once you remove the radiator, cleaning the condenser is rather easy.
   
6. Once you finish cleaning, do the entire engine. Then move on to the car. As you can see, I only work on mine when it's dirty!
   
7. 
   

That's it boys and girls. Get out there and drop them temps!

Difficulty: 3 out of 5.

Time: Plan on about 30 minutes.

The tools used are:

A medium blade screw driver

A small flashlight may help get a better look at the work location as you start.

Let's get a look at the project. If you have a coupe, you may want to remove the roof. If

you have a convertible you may want to lower the top. This will both make maneuvering

the visor assembly easier but it will also provide you with better lighting in the cockpit for

your task.

Here are a few side by side comparison photos of the new Down South Vettes visor and how

it compares to the OEM unit you will be replacing.

The DSV unit starts with an OEM core and removes the fabric treatment and replaces it with

the same high quality leather used in each of the other interior parts

The leather treatment to the sun visor will add a little bit of thickness to the unit.

Start the installation by tipping the sun visor down towards the windshield as if you were

trying to block out the sun while driving.

Next, unhook the sun visor from the latch up on the windshield frame. Once you have done

this it may be a good time to grab your flashlight and take a look at the steps that you will

be doing next. In the picture below you will see the screwdriver placed near the slot that

you will use to release the sun visor from the pillar.

To describe the task, you need to place your screw driver up in to this slot as shown here

Now, while pressing your screwdriver up in to this slot you need to press firmly with your

left hand and using your right hand, rotate the entire sun visor assembly counter-clockwise

(counter-clockwise for the driver side, clockwise for the passenger side) back towards you

as if you were moving the lowered sun visor from the windshield to the side window. It

should only take about a quarter of a revolution of the bezel as pictured above. This

quarter turn will translate to about 45 degrees of the sun visor relative to the windshie ld. If

the windshield is 0 degrees and the side window is 90 you should end up about halfway in

between. You will feel it when it unlocks. You will see that the bezel is no longer seated

against the roof. It will look like this:

Once the bezel and the assembly are unlocked from the car you will need to pull down on

the sun visor arm to remove it from the hole. You may need to work it back a forth slightly

to free it from the car. Don't pull down too hard. Firm is fine but be prepared for it to come

loose. Now that it is loose from the car you still have the connector assembly to contend

with. You may need to reach up inside the opening to free the connector. The connector

looks like this:

To disconnect the connector you will need your screwdriver again to free the clip from the

detent on the mating connector. You can see the slot for the detent pictured below. Insert

the screwdriver in the top righthand corner and gently pry forward until the clip is above the

height of the small tab. This will allow you to pull on the connector and free the visor.

Once you have the connector disconnected it should still have the bezel attached and look

like this:

Now you need to remove the bezel from the visor assembly. If you look down at the

connector end and bezel you will notice three locking tabs on the bezel that hold it on the

visor assembly.

Using one hand to hold the visor assembly near the arm, with your other hand you need to

pull out on the three tabs to free them from the locked position on the visor assembly.

Once the bezel is unlocked it will float freely on the visor arm.

To remove, align the triangle on the bezel with the triangle on the visor arm and you can

slide the bezel up and off the visor assembly. Now just free the connector from the bezel.

Pick up the new Down South Vettes visor and take note of the shape of the locking

mechanism at the connector end. You will notice three distinct shapes to the corners of the

connector triangle.

Each corner has a different radius and will match up with a radius on the bezel as pictured

here:

Match the shape on the bezel with the same size shape on the visor assembly and slide the

bezel over the connector and down onto the visor assembly. When you first slide it on it will

look like this:

While looking from the top down as pictured above, rotate the bezel clockwise and you will

feel it lock in to place on the visor assembly. Once locked it will look like this:

With one tab of the bezel now aligned with each tab of the visor assembly. You should also

notice that the base of the bezel as viewed from the side is now flush with base of the visor

connector mount. You are now ready to put your new visor back in the car.

Grab your screw driver as you will need to reverse the steps you took to get the visor out of

the car. Place the visor up on end in your lap and re-connect the visor electrical plug:

You now need to tuck the connector back up into the frame. Tuck it up in towards the

rearview mirror side.

It's time to push the visor assembly and bezel back up in to the frame. There is only one

way for it to go back up into the car. You may need to work it a little bit to find the location

but try to remember the angle at which the visor was at when you removed it. Once you

find the slot for the latch to go into, slide it up and press it firmly in place. You will need to

hold it in place and reach for your screw driver. It should look about like this:

All that's left to do is latch the assembly back in to place. You will need to use your

screwdriver and place it back in the slot like you did to remove it. This time, place the

screw driver to the right side of the visor arm (This is for the driver's side. In either case,

place it into the slot and have the shaft of the screwdriver on the rearview mirror side of the

visor arm.) While pressing up firmly on the screwdriver rotate the visor and bezel assembly

from the arm pressing against the screwdriver blade and this will cause the bezel to rotate

and latch into place on the car. Congratulations, you've just installed your new visors.

Would you like to really spruce up the interior of your Corvette C6? The Down South Vette leather interior is one of those Corvette Parts that you cannot resist!! This article will show you how to completely tear down the center stack and install the Down South Vette Console Lid, DSVette Shift Boot, DSVette Brake Handle, Ebrake boot, Down South Vette radio bezel, and the DSVette Center console base. The installation is on an Automatic transmission.

Before picture. Completely stock Corvette C6 interior.


After picture.


All of the parts going on in this batch. Center console base, console lid, center dash, shift knob, shift boot, brake knob, and brake boot.


I cut this piece of foam drawer liner to line the center console with.

In this picture you can see the shift knob is removed. To remove put the car in neutral, set parking brake, and turn off car. Then you twist the plastic ring shown in the picture (ring at top of the leather boot). Twist it clockwise from about 12 to 2 position. Now pull up on the shift knob and at the same time pull down on the ring. I'd same more pulling up on the knob than anything. It should pop off and you are left with the above picture.


Remove console cover. 4 Torx screws.


Remove brake knob. Phillips screw show here. Just slide the boot down and out of the way.


Now that the screw is removed just pull off the knob. To remove the brake boot just pull it off. There are 2 pressure pins and 2 notched pins.


Brake knob and boot removed.


Remove these two hex head screws.

The center dash peice is all pressure fit. It will pull back easily, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Don't pull too far, there are a lot of cables attached. There are a ton of things to unplug so I'll attempt to point them out. This is drivers side heated seat. I'm going to show all of the wire plugs, it might help to see them when you are feeling around behind the bezel to unplug them.


This is passenger side heated seat. Just squeeze the bottom middle and it pops out.


Ash try cigarette lighter.


Emergency flasher button.


Center console cigarette lighter plug.


Traction control button.


Here is a picture with everything out.


The boot needs the shift ring taken out by cutting the zip tie. The plastic ring around the shift position indicator is glued in so it needs the leather pulled away.

The leather boot is cut for the position indicator, but I think it really needs glued in.

Here is the boot with the plastic position indicator glued in. I glued it back in similar to how the factory boot was glued into it. I used some leather/fabric glue. You apply to the leather and plastic, wait a few minutes, and then both are tacky.


The center ring just slips right into the new boot. It's a pressure fit.

The position indicator ring snaps back in, the boot slips over the entire shifter base, the center ring slips back on, with light pressure push the shift knob back on, turn the center ring from 2 counter clockwise back to 12. You can see the shift position indicator is just sitting on; with some light pressure it will go back into place.


I hate to say put everything back together in reverse, but that is what you do. Put the console base on first (if you took it off to install a new one). Then snap the radio bezel back in place starting at the top. You'll probably have some trouble on the passenger side. It's all a tight fit because the new leather is a thicker product than the factory stuff. The brake boot goes on next, then the brake handle, and finally console cover.

NPP Mufflers waiting for Install

Factory Exhaust Removed

Run the Vacuum tubes through existing frame locations

After dropping the rear sway bar, snake the NPP mufflers up and over

Attach the pipes to the mufflers

Connect the vacuum hoses to the NPP mufflers

Make sure your muffler pipes are straight and level

Muffler hardware done and vacuum tubing run

And of course, a quick run with Ed's Polishing kit

That's all there is to it.....All that's left is to go out there and have a blast with your new found customized sound.