How to Install the Corvette C6 Z06 Billy Boat Fusion Exhaust
Did you pick up a new Corvette C6 Z06 Fusion Exhaust? Here are the direction on how to install your new Corvette exhaust system
Tools need for installation:
Jack/Jack Stands, 17mm & 18mm Socket or Wrench, 15mm Socket and Wrench, 13mm Socket and Extension
#1- Secure vehicle to wheel lift.
#2- With the car safely lifted and chocked remove the nuts and bolts that hold the roll bar and lower the anti-roll bar from the center chassis mounts. It is not necessary to completely remove the bar; it just needs to be moved in order to get the axle hoops out.
#3- Unbolt the flanges located at the front of the factory center pipe. Then remove the nuts that are holding the spring hangers at the rear of the center pipes. Loosen clamps on rear of center pipe. Pull center pipe back off the donuts at the front of the exhaust system. Lower center pipe down and pull forward off the front of the mufflers and set aside.
#4- To remove the mufflers, pull the hangers through the rubber mounts and lower the mufflers down and unwrap from over the axle. You may have to move the mufflers to one side or the other to get them out. (Note: remove drivers side first to allow room to remove the passenger side. When removing system be careful not to damage electronic components located on passenger side frame rail).
#5- Position the new muffler/axle hoop system into place. Then insert the mounting hook into the factory rubber hanger. Mate the muffler/axle hoop system to the prt center muffler in the reverse order of removal and just tighten hardware enough to still allow for movement while aligning the system. *But do not tighten them completely. Make sure that the gussets are pointed up towards the bottom of the car.)
#6- With all components in place, use a straight edge along the bottom of the tips for proper alignment. Keeping in mind that it will take some time to align them correctly.
#7- Then start by tightening the flanges in front of the system first and then the nuts, bolts and clamps connecting the muffler sections making sure everything is still in alignment.
#8- Fire the car up and take it for a spin around the block making sure there are no rattles.
#9- After logging on a few hundred miles re-torque your work.
Corvette C6 Power Windows Re-Indexing
After disconnecting the battery on a Corvette C6 or a dead battery, the window index-up feature will not function until the system
is re-initialized. Once power has been restored to the system you will need to reindex the Corvette windows so that they know the distance to travel when they index. Follow the steps below to rest the window indexing function on the Corvette C6.
1. Close the door.
2. Raise the window by pulling up the on the window switch.
3. After the window full closes, hold the up switch in the up position for three seconds and then release the switch.
4. Hold the window switch in the up position again for three seconds and release.
This is called resetting of the window indexing or power window initialize and is in the owner's manual. See page 2-17 of the 2005 owner's manual, page 2-18 of the 2006 owner's manual, page 87 of the 2007 owner's manual, page 2-18 of the 2008 owner's manual, page 2-18 of the 2009 owner's manual, page 3-18 of the 2010 owner's manual, or 2-18 of the 2011 owner's manual.
Corvette C6 Z06 Transmission Fluid Change
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* Small 3/8" Wrench or Large Wrench with a 3/8" Extension
* Oil Drain
* Suitable Pump / Transfer Tube (I got the pictured Pennzoil Pump from my local Kragen)
* 4 Quarts Trans Fluid (p/n 88861800 for GM fluid)
* Drain Plug Sealant (p/n 12346004). Note: I've never used this stuff. The red stuff applied at the factory seems to keep the plug sealed for years and many, many fluid changes -- experience from my C5Z06. But it is listed in the Service Manual.
Step 1) Raise Car
Car must be level once raised to get an accurate fluid level reading.
Step 2) Locate Trans Fill and Drain Plugs
Fill Plug is on Driver's side of Trans; Drain Plug is on Passenger's side.
Note the number of exposed threads on each.
Step 3) Optional: Remove Electrical Connector from Trans Temp Sensor
This gets the wire out of the way of the fill plug.
Unclip it using your finger, and pull out.
Step 4) Open Fill Plug
I'm a big believer in opening the fill plug, before dumping the fluid out 
Place Oil Drain under Fill Plug
Insert the end of the 3/8" Wrench or 3/8" Extension into the Fill Plug (no socket is required) and open.
A little fluid may dribble out.
Wrench inserted into Fill Plug (behind Trans Temp Sensor):
Step 5) Open Drain Plug
Place Oil Drain under Drain Plug
Insert the end of the 3/8" Wrench or 3/8" Extension into the Drain Plug (no socket is required) and open.
Step 6) Close Drain Plug
Once fluid is drained, close the Drain Plug
Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N*M) or tighten until the original # of threads are exposed (step 2)
Step 7) Fill Trans with Fluid
Insert Pump / Transfer Tube into fill port and add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling.
Mine took ~3.5 quarts.
* From Service Manual: Fill the transmission with manual transmission fluid, until even with the bottom of the fill plug hole. *
Pump in place:
Overflow draining out:
Step 
Close Fill Plug
Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N*M) or tighten until the original # of threads are exposed (step 2)
Step 9) Reinsert Electrical Connector into Trans Temp Sensor
Step 10) Lower Car and go for a Test Drive
That's it… enjoy your new Transmission fluid!
Special thanks to "Dreamin" from the Corvette forum for this contribution
Installing a Corvette C6 ZR1 Carbon Fiber Splitter
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Thanks to Gene I finally got a ZR1 splitter to put on my Katech Z. I thought I'd document the installation process with lots of pictures for folks like me that need pictures. I'm assuming that you're going to install the support brace that goes behind the front fascia as well. The first step is to remove the front fascia, this also makes an excellent time to install a front tow hook like the removable one that Phoenix Performance sells. Start by putting the car up in the air and removing the front wheels. You could do this entire procedure on jack stands but I had a lift. I put some painters tape along the top of the front fascia and where it meets the fenders on either side. I found the last time I did this those areas are prone to get scratched or scuffed if you aren't careful. Especially the top of the fascia when you go to put it back on. |
Unhook the two tabs in the same area 
In each wheel well first remove the five T-15 screws 
Then the 3 push pins to loosen up the wheel well liner 
Peel back the wheel well liner then disconnect the turn signal bulb by turning then pulling the bulb and wire out. You also need to disconnect the fog lights from the wires. 
Remove the two 10MM nuts holding the fascia to the fender. 
Under the front bumper remove two 10mm nuts (these are the silver ones with integrated washers 
Remove the five center 7 mm screws (really 3 in the center and one on each side slightly back and set in a well). 
With the 3 center screws removed you can now pull the flexible flap back and see up in to the area behind the grill. Right above where the flap is and off to either side is a push pin (these are the kind you need to pry out rather than those with a removable center). Use a screwdriver or better yet the proper tool to remove these push pins. In the same area on one side you will see that the plastic trim has a slot with a pin through it. Pull the trim piece toward you and unhook it from the pin. I couldn't get a good picture of this area due to space constraints so here's where the push pin was after I pulled the fascia out. 
At this point the fascia is almost free. Make sure hood is open and lift up the part of the fascia under the hood where you previously removed the four screws and the tab. On the far corners of this same area the fascia will still be held in place by a metal clip that snaps in to a slot in the fascia. Just grab the fascia all the way in the upper corner by the headlight and pull straight up. The fascia should pull out of the clip. Do the same on the other side. Here's what it looks like once it's unclipped 
At this point make sure the fascia is off of the studs connecting it to the fenders, make sure the brake duct pieces are out of their slots, and just lift a bit and pull the entire fascia off as a unit. If you missed a step you'll know it now so go slow and if you feel something caught go see what you missed. I'll also note that it's a tight fit to clear the part where it goes under the front of the hood. You might have to experiment with closing the hood first but make sure you don't pinch the fascia when closing the hood. Here's what the removed fascia looks like from the back 
Remove the push pins inside the grill and pull the grill out the front. Here's a couple pics of the new splitter as well as a comparison of the two. 
Here is the new support piece that goes inside the front fascia and becomes the new mount point for the splitter. 
At this point I removed the two plastic reinforcement pieces already inside the fascia. The new support goes in front of them and while you might be able to wedge it around them I thought it best just to remove the existing pieces and then put them back after the new support was in. The first support is held on with two push pins and four 7mm screws. 
Then there are two more screws on each side holding the last support to the fascia. Here is a quick pic of those pieces removed. 
The new support just drops in around the grill opening. I had just set the whole fascia on the couch in the garage to work on so it didn't get scratched up. 
Now remove the 7mm screws that are holding the old splitter on and remove all but the 3 outer clips since you will be screwing directly to the support now. 
Go ahead and line up the new splitter and start screwing it to the clips. There are four clips in locations from the original spoiler that you will no longer use and four new ones with holes already in the new splitter and the support (with clips). The new holes are on either side of the openings in the splitter. I went ahead and installed all the screws I already had holes for as this made sure the support and splitter were already aligned. Then I drilled out the fascia for the four remaining and installed them. 
As the saying goes installation is the opposite of removal. Just like with removal getting the top of the fascia under the front of the hood is a bit tough but doable. This is why I used the masking tape to keep from scratching it. Also if you're having trouble getting the rest to bolt up make sure that you're clear of the foam bumper support. I wasn't and had to reach up from underneath to lift the fascia over the foam bumper. Here are a couple pics of the finished project. When we get some decent weather and I can get out in the daylight I'll take some better pictures and post them. You'll notice that I also added the RPI painted ZR1 spoiler. Now I just need those sided skirts. 
Thanks to "Dreamin" from the Corvette Forum for this contribution.
Corvette C6 Z06 Air Filter Element Replacement
This is a very easy procedure... it takes ~15 minutes.
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06.
Tools
* Flat Blade Screwdriver
* T25 Torx bit, with suitable attachment
* Optional: Screwdriver with a "V-shaped" head
Step 1) Remove Two Retaining Pins
Use Flat Blade or "V-shaped" Screwdriver and lift the center of the push-pin
Step 2) Loosen Worm-Clamp on Accordian Coupler
Use Flat Blade Screwdriver and loosen Worm-Clamp. You dont need to 'open' it completely, just loosen it a fair amount.
Step 3) Disconnect Intake from Accordian Coupler
Push end of Acordian toward rear of car
Move/wiggle intake until it's free and place on top of Accordian (Be careful not to strain MAF Wires)
Carefully Flip Intake over and place on left side of engine (Be careful not to strain MAF Wires)
Note: I did not disconnect the MAF Sensor Wiring Harness, there is enough slack to place the intake as shown.
Step 4) Check for oil in Intake and Accordion
Dry:
Step 5) Remove Filter Frame
Remove 6 T25 Torx Screws
Pull Frame toward you
Step 6) Remove Filter Element
With frame removed, pull element out toward you.
Step 7) Replace Filter Element
Push new element into intake, and reverse the above steps.
Thanks to CorvetteForum User "Dreamin" for the article.
How to Replace a Corvette C5 Convertible Power Antenna
How To Replace a Defective Telescopic Antenna
Now this is a simple mod and the OEM assembly with motor is $130+. You'll know you have the problem because the antenna won't fully retract
Parts:
Adjustable wrench
GM OEM Power Antenna Replacement ($13 E Bay). 
Make sure the antenna is fully retracted and that the radio is off
Remove the antenna mounting nut located on the base of the mast on the outside of the car. If the mast is bent it may be necessary to cut off the old mast). If you can't all of the plastic cable out as one piece, (sometimes the plastic gets really hard and breaks into pieces then falls down into the motor), you can just pull the motor after you have pulled the mast out and get all of the pieces out. To do that you'll need to take out the outer right turn signal housing.
Turn on the radio and pull out the old mast and serrated cable completely out of the antenna motor. (Note which way the serrations on the cable are facing)
Feed the serrated cable of the new mast into the antenna hole and stop when resistance is felt. (about 12"). Make sure the cable is fed in with the teeth the same way the old cable came out.
Turn the radio off to lower the antenna until the serrated cable catches.. You may have to cycle the antenna a few times until the cable catches the gear mechanism and retracts into the antenna motor.
Replace and tighten the antenna nut into the mast base.
Turn on and make sure that the mast fully extends without binding. Clean the surface of the antenna to remove any adhesive etc.
10 minute job.
If you encounter a stuck mast here's advice from the mast vendor:
You see the new "Retaining Sleeve" (silver, 2 inches or so, with slots) on the shaft of the new antenna mast, the original one is most likely a little corroded/frozen into the shaft of your antenna No problem : You are in need of what I refer to as the "snap and tap" technique of mast removal
Turn radio on and let cycle to as much extension as is currently possible
Take hold of the thickest metal mast section (closest to fender) with you thumb and forefinger about 2-3 inches above the top of the antenna shaft hole
Push the thickest mast section into the shaft (as much as it will go within that 2-3 inches)
Hold tightly with thumb and forefinger and Snap your Wrist upward.....you will hear the mast bottom "tap" the bottom of the frozen in place retaining sleeve (what this is all about) Repeat this over and over again In-Snap-Tap-Repeat Short Firm Bursts of Energy Focusing the energy blow to the point of the tap This will free the retaining sleeve little by little till it comes out completely
Corvette C6 Z06 Brembo GT Brake Installation
This is a fairly easy, though time-consuming do-it-yourself project... Plan on spending a full day if you work carefully and slowly. It's a basic bolt-on project, though there is a little filing that needs to be done (5 minutes worth per corner), and the only challenging part is getting a good seal between the brake hard line and new SS brake line. And plan on getting brake fluid *everywhere*. Other than that, very straight-forward.
The Brembo instructions are good, but I changed the order of the steps to minimize brake fluid spillage.
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* 2 Bottles Brake Fluid Minimum – 3 Bottles Ideally
* Blue Loctite (#242)
* 11mm, 13mm, 17mm, & 5/8" Box-Wrenches
* 10mm Hex Socket
* 11mm, 13mm & 21mm Sockets
* Suitable 3/8" & 1/2" Wrenches
* 3/8" to 1/2" Adapter as needed
* Pliers / Metal Snips
* Large Flat Blade Screwdriver
* Round Metal File
* Empty Plastic Bottle
* Turkey Baster
* Hammer - if changing brake pads (from what's shipped installed in the calipers)
* Small Nail Punch - if changing brake pads (from what's shipped installed in the calipers)
Step 1) Raise Car; Remove Wheels; Release Parking Brake
FRONT BRAKES
Pictures are of Passenger Side Front
Step 2) Remove Caliper
Turn Steering wheel to give more clearance
Use 21mm Socket and Remove Two Bolts.
Slide Caliper off and place to the side, supported by something, so the brake line is not stressed.
Back Side of Caliper, top bolt in place, bottom bolt removed:
Step 3) Remove Rotor
Use Pliers / Metal Snips to cut Rotor Retaining Washer off
Pull rotor straight off
Rotor removed with caliper on the side supported by a 2x4:
Step 4) Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket
Use 21mm Socket with Stock Bolts
Service Manual says to use new bolts; if you choose to reuse your existing bolts, clean the bolts and apply Blue Loctite.
Torque to 129 ft-lbs (175 Nm)
Torque Wrench attached to top bolt:
Step 5) Clean Rust off the Hub
Step 6) Install Rotor
It just slides on the hub
Step 7) Install Caliper
Use 10mm Hex socket and long Brembo Bolts. Thread these carefully… the threads on the bracket are easy to damage!
* Brembo Manual says that these are Self-Locking and do not require thread lock compound... so use it at your discretion *
Torque to 80 ft-lbs (115 Nm)
Step Attach SS Brake Line to Caliper
Use 13mm socket
Torque to 15 ft-lbs (20 Nm) – I had to tighten a little more to get them leak-free.
The line should be attached just forward of vertical (15-30 degrees toward the front of the car)
Secure other end of SS Brake line out of the way for now.
*From Brembo Manual: Do not apply sealant or thread lock to any brake line connections *
Step 9) Remove Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use Flat Blade Screwdriver and push up (vertically) on the Retaining Clip. It takes a moderate amount of force.
Screwdriver on Clip:
Clip half-way off:
Clip is reused; it fits on the Brembo supplied SS brake line perfectly:
Step 10) Disconnect Brake Hard Line from (flexible) Stock Brake Line
Pull assembly toward you a little, enough to get both box wrenches on your side of the mounting tab.
Use 5/8" box wrench on (outer) Flex Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt. This 'Bolt' is threaded into the outer Nut. The threads for this nut face toward you. Unscrew this bolt.
Step 11) Cap Brake Hard Line
*Now you have to work fast, to minimize getting brake fluid everywhere*
Pull Hard line onto other side of mounting tab and out of the way.
Use Red plastic stopper from Brembo supplied SS brake lines, and insert over Hard Line.
Note: this slows, but does not stop brake fluid from leaking out.
Step 12) Enlarge Brake Line Mounting Tab
Use Metal File and make the 'square' hole in the Mounting Tab more circular
A minimal amount of filing is required. Maybe 5 minutes +/-.
Test Fit the Brembo supplied SS brake line as needed.
Step 13) Attached Brake Hard Line to Brembo supplied SS Brake Line
Use 17mm box wrench on (outer) Brembo-Supplied SS Brake Line Nut. This nut does NOT move.
Use 13mm box wrench on (inner) Brake Hard Line Bolt.
It should not take a lot of force to thread the brake lines together.
Torque to 13 lb ft (18Nm) - I had to tighten them very tight for them not to leak.
Step 14) Reinstall Brake Hard Line Retaining Clip
Use back of Flat Blade Screwdriver and lightly pound Retaining Clip back on.
That's it for the Front!
REAR BRAKES
Pictures are of Driver Side Rear
Step 15) Install Rear Brakes
The procedure is identical to the front; Torque values are identical to the front. Summary Pictures:
Remove Caliper:
Remove Rotor; Install Brembo Caliper Mounting Bracket:
Disconnect Brake Hard Line; 
File Brake Line Mounting Tab; Get Brake Fluid everywhere:
That's it for the Rear!
FLUSH BRAKE FLUID
By the time I got all four corners installed… this is how much fluid I had left!
It didn't cause any issues, just took a long time to get the system air free (2 full bottles).
Step 16) Flush Brake Fluid
Turkey Baster fluid from reservoir as needed
Use 11mm box wrench on bleed-screw
Use Brembo supplied tube
Use your own plastic bottle
Run at least 2 bottles through the system
Bleed order:
Right Rear Inner
Right Rear Outer
Left Front Inner
Left Front Outer
Left Rear Inner
Left Rear Outer
Right Front Inner
Right Front Outer
Make sure the person helping you bleed the brakes has something to do! (Because it takes a while to get the system air free and leak free)
Step 17) Verify that the brake line connections do not leak
Any leaks will become evident during the Brake flush/bleed.
The system should not leak… not even a little, tiny bit. There may be some 'weeping' from fluid caught between the threads… but have your helper press the brake pedal as hard as they can… no fluid should seep out anywhere.
If there is a leak, tighten the brake line connection. If it still leaks, open brake line connection, verify there is no debris caught in the threads and reconnect.
It took me quite a while to get one of the corners leak-free; no problems with the other three.
Step 18) Replace wheels, Lower Car
BED ROTORS / PADS
Follow the Brembo Supplied Instructions for this.
THAT'S IT
Now go enjoy your new Brembo Brakes… You're going to love them!
How to Change your Brake Pads on a Corvette C6 Z06
Tools Needed:
- Jack and jack stands
- Lug wrench to take off the wheels
- 13/16" socket for the caliper bolts
- Clamp to compress pistons
- Flat head screwdriver
- Allen wrench/sockets for caliper pins (only if your one-piece pads don't need them)
- Mallet, prybar, or hammer to assist with rotor removal
Brake pads:
Step 1: Jack up your car and take off the wheels.
Step 2: Locate the two big caliper bolts and unbolt them. They're on tight, so it will take some effort. The bolts are marked with red dots in the picture:
Step 3: Pry off the caliper. The pads are still pressing against the rotor somewhat, so this also takes a bit of force, but you should have no problem doing it by hand.
Step 4: Make sure the caliper is supported by something (box/brick/etc) so it's not hanging by the brake line. Pry out the padlettes. There are 6 total in each front caliper and 4 total in each rear.
If you're installing one-piece pads that don't have holes for the pins, you will need to remove the pins marked in blue. Carbotechs pads do have holes, so leave the pins in place
Step 5: Compress the pistons (push them into the caliper) so the new pads will have room to clear the rotor.
NOTES:
- Cleaning around the pistons first will help you prevent scratching the bores.
- You can leave your pads in which can make this step easier.
- Be careful when doing this as you can easily damage your caliper paint if using a metal clamp.
- This pushes fluid back into the brake system. The brake fluid reservoir may overflow, so watch out.
- You can also open a bleeder valve which pushes the old fluid out instead of back into the system, just be careful and don't get any fluid on your caliper paint.
Step 6: Put your new pads in, put the caliper back on, and tighten the caliper bolts to 175Nm / 129lb ft. If you removed the pad pins and need to re-install them, torque them to 40Nm / 30lb ft. I went with posiquiets as I'm a cheap bastard (old pads on the bottom):
Before you start driving, be sure to pump your brakes until you have a firm pedal. This pushes the pads back into contact with the rotors and prevents you from having a possible accident.
Note about brake fluid: You don't need to bleed your brakes when you change your pads. For a non-tracked car, I recommend bleeding the brakes every 1-2 years. For a track car, this should be done as often as possible since fresh fluid will always help you brake better.
Rotors:
Step 1: Follow Steps 1-3 above in the Brake Pad section.
Step 2: If this is your first time taking off your rotors, there's a clip that you'll need to cut/pry off:
Step 3: Smack the back of the rotor until it comes loose, preferably with something that won't scratch it. You can also use a hammer or something similar to pry them off as shown in the picture. If removing the rear rotors, make sure the parking brake is off.
Step 4: You're done! When you put a rotor back on, you don't need the clip to hold it on. This is only used to assist in assembly at the factory. The wheels will hold the rotor for you.
Created by LMBTom from the Corvette Forum
How to remove the Fuel Line on a Corvette C6 to install painted Fuel Rail Covers
Here is a quick "how to" on adding painted Fuel Rail Cover's by removing the fuel line. Let me preface this by saying it may not be the best method but the one I prefer. I know some do the tape and bend method but I tried that and still ended up scratching my freshly painted FRC's. Obviously mine are already installed.
Also, this isn't a very difficult thing to do but please understand that some people don't want to start pulling things off and removing parts from their Vette without knowing what they are getting in to.
IMPORTANT: Let the engine cool completely before removing the fuel line. A little gas may spill out and you don't want it dripping on to a hot engine.
This is the removal tool you will need. I bought it at Autozone but I'm sure you can find it or similar at any auto parts store. You need a 3/8" size.
Let's start with the easy (passenger) side just to see how they go on and off. 
First remove the oil fill cap then simply pull up on the edges of the FRC.
This is what it looks like under there.
The FRC's just snap right on with the clips and posts. Both sides snap on the same way but the fuel line is in the way on the driver's side.
Now on to the driver's side (and fuel line removal).
The fuel line actually connects in two places (under the FRC or at the firewall). You can remove it in either location but I prefer disconnecting it under the FRC.
Pull the FRC off from the top carefully to access the fuel line. (I removed it for the purpose of taking pictures so you can see what is going on. Just follow the steps while the FRC is still on.) It's a little tight under there but just be careful.
Before you remove the fuel line put a towel or rag under it to catch any fuel that leaks out. 
There is a locking clip that needs to come off first.
Pull it up on this end then it slides right out.
Next, take the tool with the 3/8" side and place it on the fuel line. 
Then you need to push it in to the coupling (arrow shows direction). It takes a little force but as you push it in you just pull the connection apart.
Here it is apart.
Now just slide the stock FRC off and put the painted one on, carefully feeding the fuel line through the hole. (You can use a little blue painter's tape around the hole/slit in the FRC to be extra careful)
Now reinstall the fuel line by pushing it back together (arrow shows direction) and you will hear and feel a "click" as it goes back on. Then place the locking clip back by sliding it on and clipping it back down.
Snap the FRC back on and you're finished. Now step back and enjoy !!
Cleaning Your Corvette C5 Radiator
Cleaning Your Radiator and Condenser - The Quick Overheating Fix
Source: Junkman-Digital Corvettes Forum Member
This DIY is more of a band-aid repair for those who have heating issues. It will help most and depending on what is stuffed up in your radiator/condenser area, it may help a lot. If you manage to get a lot of dirt, twigs, grass and leaves out of these areas, you will see a significant improvement. For those who have heavily modified engines, you may want to just invest in a bigger radiator.
First, a little knowledge on overheating. One misconception that runs rampant is that installing a lower temperature thermostat will cure overheating issues. This is quite far from the truth (I use to think this also). I'll give you a perfect example.
If it took you 2 hours to get to work because:
- Traffic was so thick that no one could drive over 15mph.
- The road that you took to work could not handle the amount of traffic on the road.
- Most of the people commuting on this road were not going to work, but were 90 year old gray hairs who were just out to take in the scenery.
- Your car had only 23 horsepower.
So what do you do? You go out and buy a 2009 Z06 with every horsepower option there was. Your new Vette can do 0-60 in 2.9 seconds. You leave for work in your new beast and arrive at work 1 minute later than you did in that 23 horsepower beater. Why? Because you never addressed the other variables which are more important than the horsepower of your old beater.
The thermostat simply regulates the minimum temperature of the cooling system. As the coolant heats up the thermostat begins to open at the specified temperature and allow coolant to flow through the radiator at a higher rate.
When you start your car the t-stat is "closed" (some coolant still flows by) and the majority of the coolant circulates through the block (etc...) as it comes up to temperature.
So by installing a lower temperature t-stat, it will allow the coolant to begin flowing through the radiator at a lower temp and slow the warming of the car (not hold it steady).
It will not lower the maximum temperature or operating temperatures of the system. This is a common misconception. It takes a larger radiator and/or improved air flow to lower operating temperatures when moving, and you will need to set your fans to come on sooner to lower temperatures when driving in stop and go traffic. This is true for modified engines.
If your engine is NOT modified, you need to address the problem that is creating your overheating issues, not redesign the system as you would on a modified engine. If you address the problem, your overheating issues will disappear. That I know from experience with my stock engine.
There is one disadvantage in installing a 160 degree thermostat. If you do lots of short trips in a cold climate, the car will never reach its designed operating temperature. You want the oil to get to at least 190 degrees every drive in order to evaporate any condensation in the oil.
Now that you realize that there are multiple variables that need to be addressed in order to lower your temperatures, get up under that puppy and check the radiator and the condenser for anything that may be blocking air flow. I had Jimmy Hoffa stuck in mine. Okay, maybe it was just a bag but that one plastic bag made my temperatures go through the roof. Twigs and grass clippings will do the same thing.
With all that said, let's get to work!
- Unclip the air filter retaining clamps. This is a perfect opportunity to replace the air filter with a K&N air filter. A much better filter than those crappy paper ones.
- Situate the clamps out of the way.
- Raise and remove the air bridge retaining pins.
- Loosen the screw that holds the air bridge onto the throttle body.
- Next, loosen the bolt at the other end of the air bridge.
- Now this step was a PITA for me. You want to disconnect the MAF sensor. I, for the sake of all that is ugly about Lyle Lovett could not get that plug off. I didn't want to pull too hard because I knew that breaking it would throw all kinds of codes once I started the engine. Thus, I left it connected and loosened up its harness by removing it from the clamp that holds the cable in place. You'll notice that the MAF sensor is still in place in the following pictures.
- Now you're ready to remove the radiator support which is held in place by 4 bolts.
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- Now you'll be able to see all that crap that is causing your temperatures to go through the roof.
- IMPORTANT: Forcing high PSI's of air or water into the radiator or condenser will cause the fins on the units to bend and close, thus rendering these units useless! You must use extreme care when messing around these units so that you do not destroy them!
Now here comes the fun part. You need to delicately brush the dirt off of the front of both the condenser and the radiator. I cannot stress enough how delicate you need to be. This is why I will be pulling my radiator out of the car this winter so that I can do this the right way. I may even replace the radiator with a bigger and better one. Once you have brushed as much dirt off the front of the units, use low PSI's of compressed air to blow out as much debris as possible. After you have removed as much debris as you can with air, finish the cleaning with water. You only want to blow air and water into these units in one direction.
Blowing in the other direction only causes stuff to further lodge itself into the units. Now the tricky part is finding a brush, hose, or air tool that will fit in between these units. Again, this is why I will be removing mine. There are devices out there, you just have to do some hunting for them. I just wiggled stuff around and did the best I could. My cleaning did make a difference but I still can see junk stuck in both units. Once you remove the radiator, cleaning the condenser is rather easy.
- Once you finish cleaning, do the entire engine. Then move on to the car. As you can see, I only work on mine when it's dirty!
That's it boys and girls. Get out there and drop them temps!