How to Remove the C6 Corvette Shift Knob and Install the Southern Car Parts Shift Knob
The C6 Corvette Shift knob is kinda tricky to remove. Unlike most Shift Knobs, they simply unscrew. The Corvette C6 Shift knob comes off a little different, but once you know how to do it, it is really simple. See below for a quick and easy way to replace your shifter knob.
Tools Needed
T20 torx driver needed (2005-2007 and 2009)
Phillips Screwdriver (2008)
3mm hex key
Loctite (optional)
See Below IF YOUR SHIFTER BOOT HAS A CHROME RING
AT THE TOP (GENERLY 2008 AND UP)
Remove the OEM as shown below (if your boot has a chrome ring see below)
Install your new shift knob, give it a few hard twists while putting downward
pressure to seat the knob. This knob has a precision fit, it's critical to be sure
the knob hole is in alignment with the screw hole in the shifter or you may strip
the threads. The OEM screw has a starter stud in the front to help align the
screw. If you meet resistance installing the screw check alignment and try again.
Reinstall the OEM screw using loctite if you have it. Tighten firmly using a ¼
ratchet if you have an adapter or as tight as you can if using a universal driver
handle. Slip the boot over the retainer ring working one side up and then the
other, you may have to twist the boot over the ring or use some Windex as a
lube.
2008 and up shift knob removal and installation
Remove the OEM knob by grasping the chrome ring and rotate it COUNTER CLOCK WISE until the ring drops down and exposes the screw
on the driver's side. Depending on the yr, you will either have a phillips or torx head screw. People have had problems removing the phillips
screw and most likely that is why GM switched to torx which is much less likely to have problems. To successfully remove the phillips, I
suggest the following. Use the best #2 phillips screw driver you have (do not use a power driver). Remove the screw when the car is hot
(after a good drive). Have someone hold the OEM knob and apply force from the passenger side as you apply pressure on the driver and
remove the screw.
Once you are happy with the ring fit, install the new bolt into the knob (loctite optional) making sure you are aligned with
the hole. Do not force the bolt in or you might strip the shifter. Using a 3mm hex key, make the bolt tight. the fit between the bolt and the ring
is very close and you must have the chrome ring positioned so the little tabs are facing front and back at the 12 and 6 positions. This will
give you the most clearance to install the bolt. Reinstall the chrome ring when you are done.
Halltech Corvette C5 Venom Installation
Halltech Venom Corvette C5 2001-2004 Installation Instructions
Donated By Southern Car Parts (www.southerncarparts.com)
Tools Needed
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Hairdryer
- Freezer
Please note there are two different style C5 Venom Air Bridges that may come with your intake. Do not be alarmed if yours does look like the one in the pictures. You should have one of the two styles shown in the installation directions or look like the one below. There is not any performance difference between either style.
1) Completely remove your stock airbox assembly.
Remove the gray security clip from the MAF connector with a small
screwdriver. You must press down on the small, raised part of the clip
before pulling it off the connector.
Remove the connector by pressing down on its center and then pulling it
off. Tape the connector to the radiator shroud so that it is up and out of
the way.
Remove the 90 degree elbow (AIR hose) and hose from your existing OEM intake. Leave the 90 degree elbow on the hose for now (not shown correctly in picture, picture shows hose disconnected from elbow to aid in illustration).
2) Loosen the 8mm hose clamp that holds the accordion bellows to the
throttle body.
Pop-off the air bridge retainer from the rubber grommets at each side of
the OEM airbridge. See below
3) Remove the air filter and its frame from the airbox. This will allow you to
see the grommets that are keeping the airbox attached to the front part of
the car.
4) Now that you can see the attachment points, reach down near one of the
grommets and pull the front of the airbox toward the engine. Watch the
retaining pin slip through the grommet. Now repeat for the other side's
grommet.
Pull the accordion bellows away from the throttle body and remove the
OEM airbox and bridge assembly. You're halfway there!
Below is a picture of the entire stock airbox assembly removed from the car.
5) Remove the airbox hose end and the airbridge end from the MAF sensor by first
loosening the band clamps and then twisting and pulling. The airbox end will slip
out rather easily, but the airbridge end may take a bit of muscle to disconnect.
6) Take the stock MAF and place it in the freezer. Grab your new Halltech airbridge and a hairdryer. Using the hairdryer, warm the MAF end of the airbridge (end that does not have the rubber coupling on it). See below.
7) After a minute of warming, pull the MAF out of the freezer and attach the rubber coupling that came with the Halltech to the back side of the MAF (notice the airflow direction arrow on the MAF) The rubber coupling goes on the side that the arrow points too. Also make sure you line up the notch on the rubber coupling to the notch on the MAF. Lay it on a countertop or flat surface, rubber coupling down and front of the MAF facing up. (see below)
Take the warmed airbridge and slide it over the MAF, pressing down firmly until it is seated in place. You might need to warm the plastic some more with the hairdryer. The finished product should look like below.
Now to install in the car. Place your new filter (plastic removed) into the engine bay where the old filter assembly was.
9) Grab the entire airbrdge assembly and connect the MAF end to your intake manifold.
10) Using the band clamps, tighten the rubber coupling to the intake manifold.
11) Next, go to the front of the car and reaching in from under the hood, slide the filter into the other end of the airbidge and tighten the airbridge and filter together until they are snug.
12) Disconnect the clip that holds the MAF cable to the shroud, can be a little tricky as it has a little latch on it.
You should now be able to get some slack in the MAF plug and be able to plug it back into the MAF, do not forget to put the little grey locking piece back into the plug.
13) Last but not least, *****Updated 1/31/08**** There is now two versions of the Venom in the marketplace. Please pull out your air filter from the box and check on the bottom of the filter for a small hole. If you have the hole on the bottom of your filter skip this section and jump all the way to step 13A, if not continue on to step 13 skipping steps 13a and b..
13) Next remove the plastic elbow from the A.I.R hose (one you left on in step 1). You can set it aside as you will not need it anymore. Reusing the clamp that was on the hose. Insert the small filter that came with your Halltech into the A.I.R. hose and clamp into place. You can just lay the hose with the filter down by the Halltech filter.
13A) Only use step (13a and b) if you have a hole in the bottom of your air filter. Skip this step if you intake filter does not have a small hole in the bottom of the filter and came with a small air filter and one large one.
13B) Insert the elbow of your AIR hose (the one you left on in step one) into the bottom of your filter so that it looks like below.
14) That is it, clean up and enjoy the power of your new Halltech Intake.
Finished product
Corvette C5 Headlight Switch-Blinker Arm Removal
This write-up will show the steps involved with removing the headlight switch / blinker arm / multi-function switch assembly, either for repair or replacement. There wasn't a good picture-rich write-up that I could find so I documented my process, and maybe it'll help somebody out.
My particular problem was that when I turn on the headlights, the taillights wouldn't work and the instrument panel would not illuminate. After removing and repairing my headlight switch, I'm fully functional once again.
Tools Needed:
-Beer of Choice (to be used whenever the heck you feel like it!)
-Torx driver or keys, for the following: T15, T20, and T25.
If you are going to open the headlight switch, add T8 to the list.
-The T25 should be a one-inch bit, OR an L-shaped key with a one-inch leg.
-1/4" open-end wrench
-Diagonal cutters (optional)
-Flat-bladed screwdriver or other thin prying device
10mm socket, 4mm socket, 7mm socket, socket wrench, and 6" extension (or equivalent set of nut-drivers)
The Procedure:
In order to get to the blinker switch, we'll be removing the knee panel that goes under and beside the steering wheel; the steering column covers; and we'll loosen the center console pieces. Here's how to do all this.
0. Turn the steering wheel such that the TOP of the wheel is facing LEFT. You'll see why in step 10.
1. First, I'd recommend loosening the center console and radio bezel. This just makes it easier/safer to remove the paneling around the steering wheel I think. For a good procedure on this, check out this guide at Vette Essentials:
Beginning with step 2 in that guide, it'll show you how to remove/loosen these pieces. That guide also parallels some of my write-up here, so you can refer to that guide for additional pictures/info. Once you have those panels removed or loose, come back here and continue on!
2. Remove the trunk release switch panel by using a flat screwdriver or somesuch to pop it out of the dash panel. It's connected to a wire which easily unplugs once you pull the switch forward.
Behind this switch is a T15 torx bolt; unscrew that and set aside with the trunk switch.
3. Next, we'll unscrew the big knee panel under the steering wheel. There are two T15 torx bolts that hold it in place... unscrew those.
4. To remove this panel after having unscrewed those two bolts, you'll need to pull TOWARDS YOU from the LEFT SIDE of the panel. There are two tight clips that you need to unsnap: (red circles are where these fasteners attach; you'll see those once you pull the panel off). The blue circle is the wire that was attached to the trunk release button.
5. When you have the left half of the knee panel loose, carefully begin to work the right half of the panel free. The HVAC sensor is attached; so mind the connecting wire (red circle in below picture). It's easily disconnected; and at that point you should be able to remove the knee panel completely and set it aside.
6. Next, let's remove the steering column covers. First we'll need to remove the bottom half. It's held on by two T20 screws, located as follows:
Once those screws are out, gently pull downward on the bottom half. It will separate from the top half... they are connected at this point solely by plastic latches (red circles) and hooks (blue circle), as shown below. With some maneuvering, the bottom piece will come free. The tricky part is getting it off from and around the tilt steering lever.
7. Unfortunately I didn't get pictures of this step; but I'll try to explain the removal of the top half of the steering column: It's held on by two torx bolts from underneath. However, these are not normal torx bolts. Instead of the torx pattern being recessed like most bolts; this star-pattern is RAISED. I don't know about you, but I don't have torx equipment for those bolts. I found that a 4mm socket does the trick nicely. A six-inch extension is preferred to reach the bolts with. There will be one bolt on each side of the steering wheel. You can see them if you can get your head underneath and look up. Unscrew these bolts, and the top half of the steering column cover will come right off.
8. Now we have the headlight switch exposed, but before we remove the thing, let's tend to the wires first. To get to them easier, I would remove the metal guard that sits behind the knee panel we removed. (It's got the styrofoam on it). You'll want the 7mm socket and a 6" extension to easily do this: Insert the socket/extension through the holes (circled in red) to get at the bolts (circled in blue). Obviously, this picture is AFTER the guard has been detached but you can still see where and how to get at the bolts.
9. The wiring from the headlight switch attaches in two locations to the car: There is a large blue connector and a small black connector. You'll want to unplug both of these. They are shown below. (To detach the blue connector... push on the small tab (circled in red) and pull apart.
You may also find that the wires from the headlight switch are cable-tied together with some other wires... If this is the case, use some diagonal cutters to cut the tie away so you can fully free the wires from the headlight switch. There is another, larger clasp/cable tie that can simply be undone without cutting it through.
10. Now we can remove the part! For this step you'll need the T25 bit/driver and the 1/4 open-end wrench. here's the part, fully exposed: Note there are TWO bolts; both T25's. The one on top is easy to get at if you tilt the steering down as far as it will go. The one facing forward, however, sits behind the steering wheel.
To remove this, we'll simply use our 1" T25 torx bit and the 1/4 inch wrench to turn it from the side: Real easy!
Get these bolts removed, and you're home free.
One word of advice... when you remove the headlight switch, you may inadvertently beep your horn. The front of the switch has a small brass pin that sticks out, that... upon touching the steel disc at the base of the steering wheel, evidently makes the horn sound off. Remember playing that game "Operation" in preschool? It's rather like that!
At this point... your switch is free of the car and ready for repair or replacement.
Corvette C6 Z06 Battery Charger Installation
Corvette C6 Z06 CTEK Battery Charger Installation
This is a quick and easy way to install the Ctek Battery Charger in the two rear compartments of your car and have 1/2 inch of the AC power cable right above your license plate. Everything is in the car, all you need to do is plug it in when you want the car to be charged.
Tools Needed
T15 Torx bit
1) Open your rear hatch and unscrew the 4 holding caps that hold the rear carpet in place.
2) There are two plastic push fasteners in the center of the carpet on the receiver for the latch. Just pull straight out and they will pull out.
3) Once the carpet is pulled back, on the right side (passenger side) of the rear portion of the tub (almost behind the first taillight to the right of your license plate), is a large rubber plug with a single wire running through it. Pop out the plug, leaving the wire in it in place.
4) Using the T15 Torx bit, remove the screw on the first taillight to the right of your license plate. Carefully pull the taillight out of the socket, being very careful not to dislodge the clip the torx screw threads into. Let the taillight gently hang on out of your rear bumper, or you can disconnect it at the plug and set it aside. Either one should be fine.
5) Next, lift open the left compartment (one without the battery), this is where your Ctek will rest. Take both the AC plug end and the Ctek plug (that will be plugging into the battery) and gently fish the full length of them under back side of the plastic bezel the surrounds the compartment. You are going to need every inch so do not leave much slack in the compartment.
6) Run both of the wires along the back of your car, behind the carpet, under the hatch receiver, the Ctek charging lead goes into the battery compartment in the same way the you routed it out of the other compartment (under the plastic surround bezel).
7) For the AC power cable, fish it through the hole where the rubber plug was. Using one hand, reach in through the taillight that you removed and grab the plug and run it down through the hole above your license plate. It is a tight fit, but will come through if you angle it correctly. Let it hang out about an inch. The rubber stopper that was in the hole will need to be cut halfway to the center, be careful not to cut the existing wire that is in the middle of it. This splice will allow you you insert the ac power cable and then put the plug back into the hole it was removed from. After you get the plug routed out of the rear of the car, go ahead and make the cut and reinsert the plug with both wires in it.
Go ahead and connect the negative and positive leads on the battery terminals. You can either remove the existing nuts (will lose power to your car) or run to your local hardware store and buy two nuts to screw right on top of the existing nut so that you will not have to disconnect battery power.
9) All done, neaten everything up…put the carpet back and you are done. You now a have a nice full self enclosed battery solution. All you need to do is plug in the car. Just do not forget to unplug it before you go on a drive
Corvette C5 Output Shaft Seal Leak Fix
Contributed by A.J Johnson/Digital Corvettes.com
Here's the scenario. You pull your baby out of the garage and notice that something has leaked out of the rear of the car. The odd thing is that the leak is not dead center of the rear, it's more to the left (or right if you're really having a bad day). What you are probably experiencing is the failure of the output shaft seal (normally the driver's side in the C5). I say probably because doing a little "wide open throttle" (or WOT as it is known here) can also cause you to wake up to a wet spot. In the case of WOT, this is a normal occurrence, as the differential has a exhaust outlet in which differential fluid will leak out of in order to relieve case pressure.
If you're more of a cruiser, then you probably just have a leaking output shaft seal. You have 2 ways of identifying the source of the leak.
The professional way if the leaking source is not obvious is to add some Black Light Oil Dye to the differential and then check the area with a black light after some normal driving. The fluid will glow either a bright yellow or bright green. This allows you to identify the leak without doing unnecessary and costly repairs. If you want the GM dye, one place you can order it from the GM Special Parts website (this site only works with Internet Explorer). The part number is J-28431, which can be used in engine, transmission, and rear axle oils, as well as power steering fluids. (Note: part number J-29545 is only for use in engine coolants)
The second way if the leak is obvious enough, is to do a visual inspection. Look at the picture below.
You can clearly see how the leak is confined to about a 180 degree area of the seal. The differential side covers have been known to leak due to a design flaw although in this situation, this is not the case (just be aware of that possibility). We know that this is not the case here as oil does not leak in a upward direction.
Now that we have identified the leaking source, let's get that baby fixed!
The first thing you should do is get some replacement differential fluid. Now would be a good time to replace that old, stinky stuff. The service manual calls for SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent. The manual also states to add 4 ounces of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive. Today, you can buy this gear oil already mixed. Mobile one and Red Line are two brands that I found with the limited-slip additive already built in.
NOTE! After replacing the differential gear oil, do not go WOT for a minimum of 300 miles. Doing so may result in scoring of the ring and pinion gears leading to differential noise!!!
Some of the tools that were not in my "shade tree" collection that you may have to get, or that will make the job easier are:
Torque Wrenches - the nuts and bolts in this repair have specific torque settings. Since your life is depending on the tightness of these nuts and bolts, it would be smart to spend a few dollars and make sure that you torque them to the GM specifications. You can view a PDF document of the fastener tightening specifications by clicking here. You can view those settings for the brake components here.
A 21mm wrench for the lower arm ball joint nut, a short set of Hex sockets (notice the sizes in the picture - that 10mm is for the differential drain and fill plugs), and a 33mm deep-socket for the axle bolt. If you don't screw up your parking brake assembly and do not have to separate the stabilizer from the upper and lower control arms, then you will not need the 21mm wrench. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:
A drift punch or something equivalent.
Last of all, you'll need the replacement seal.
Notice the grease that is inside the interior lining of the seal. Do not wipe that off!
Here's something you should consider. The differential has 2 output shaft seals. The right seal is not known for leaking but you never know. I bought 2 seals for a couple of reasons. One, because the differential has two of these seals. Two, the seals were dirt cheap; they were something like $12 each. Lastly, knowing how much of a shade tree mechanic I am, I wanted to have an ace in the hole just in case I screwed up one of those seals. Well guess what happened. I screwed up one of the seals when installing it. This is something you may want to consider if your mechanic skills are anything like mine.
My method of doing this repair differs from Cajun Dude's in that I actually removed the drive shaft. The reason I did so was because of the limited amount of space that I had to work in while trying to seat the seal. Look at this picture:
Even after I removed the drive shaft, it was still somewhat awkward to get up in there and figure out how to swing my hammer to seat the seal. One thing that Cajun Dude said that was right on target was tap, tap, taparoo... :yesnod:
As some of you may know, I bought the J-46405 tool that the TSB concerning this repair calls for. I have mixed emotions about its effectiveness when doing the repair the way I did. If I had taken the entire differential out of the car, the tool would have been a must have for me. However, using it in this situation was helpful, but what probably would have worked best was if this tool had a 3-foot shaft. That way, I could have stood back from the wheel well and whacked away on that seal. I did use it to do the install so I guess it ended up paying for itself.
The Repair
Okay, let's get started! I'm going to keep this as close to the manual as possible. Note: One thing that I did when removing nuts and bolts was to put them back where they originally went so that they would not get lost, and so that I would know where they went when it was time to reassemble everything. Good rule to follow for a shade tree mechanic!
1. Shift the transmission into PARK (A/T) or NEUTRAL (M/T).
2. Work the parking brake a whole bunch of times and then apply it. This will loosen the shoes up from the rotors. If you don't do this, your rotors may be a PITA to get off. They may also rip the parking brake shoes!.
3. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
5. Insert a drift or punch into the brake rotor cooling fins and against the brake caliper to prevent the wheel hub and bearing from turning.
6. Loosen (do not remove) the spindle nut retaining the rear wheel drive shaft to the hub.
7. Remove the drift or punch.
8. Release the parking brake.
9. Using a 15mm socket, remove the caliper bolts. You'll need to hold the caliper pin still using a 5/8" wrench. Be careful not to stress the brake line going to the caliper.
10. At this point, use your jack to support the lower control arm.
11. Remove the 2 bolts at the top of the shock absorber.
12. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the upper control arm to the frame.
13. Separate the outer tie rod end from the knuckle and reposition the tie rod toward the rear of the vehicle.
Here's the way I removed mine before I got smart enough to go buy some Hex sockets:
14. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector.
15. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. Now here comes the fun part. First of all, if you skipped step 8, you'll never get this cable off so make sure that you performed step 8.
You're also going to have to free the parking brake cable from the bracket that holds it in place. This is a real PITA. Do not get frustrated and break those tabs off. A new parking brake cable is not cheap! Look at the picture below:
Here's a trick that JDaniel over at CF used to get his cable off. I quote: "After I unhooked it from the hook and needed a way to get the prongs collapsed to get it out of the bracket, this is what I did. I grabbed a 1/2 combo wrench and used the boxed end. Its a tight fit but you slide the end of the cable theough the wrench and up to where the prongs are. Just push it up around the prongs and to the bracket and they all collapse and pops right out. Then you just slide the cable through the wrench and out of the bracket! Easy as 1-2-3!". That may be of some use when you get to this step.
If you get frustrated and decide to remove the bracket bolts, here they are:
At this point, you are ready to take a break and have the Junkman Special "Dagwood" Pizza!
For those of you on a budget, please substitute a bologna sandwich and get back to work.
Shaft Removal
16. At this point, the service manual calls for part number J-42129 to separate the axle from the stabilizer, and J-29794 to separate the axle from the differential. Here's what we're going to do.
First, jack the lower control arm up so that the axle is somewhat straight (not hanging down). Loosen the spindle nut up about a half-inch. Grab the top of the stabilizer. You're going to use it like a slide hammer to "bump" the drive shaft out of the differential. Just bump it firmly toward you and the drive shaft will eventually work its way out of the differential. At the same time (if you're lucky), the bumping will loosen up the axle at the stabilizer too. If not, you may have to give it a slight whack to disengage it from the stabilizer.
Note: Do not whack the end of the shaft while it is still seated inside the differential. There's no telling what damage that could cause. Also, if you get the shaft out of the differential and have to give it a whack to dislodge it from the stabilizer, pay particular attention to the end of the shaft by the differential as to not allow it to bang up against anything - especially the differential!
Be careful not to whack the wheel studs also.
Whatever you do, do not make the mistake of removing the stabilizer with the axle attached to it like this:
If you do, you've just created a lot more work which is now why I'm so good at removing the entire shaft and control arms. In 3 days, I must have put that thing in and pulled it out of the car at least 5 times. Like Michael (Mike94ZLT1) said in one of my other post, you get real good and quick at this after you've done it a few times. I couldn't believe how fast I put it back together the last time I did it.
Once you have the axle loose at both the differential and the stabilizer, you will need to bend the end of the shaft and simultaneously rotate the stabilizer out of the way in order to remove the axle. Check out the picture:
17. Now that you have the shaft out of the way, clean up the differential. You want to be able to see any new leaks if you don't install the seal correctly.
18. Now you're ready to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one. The old seal does not come out easily. It does however have a slight lip around the outside edge of it that you can feel and I used a seal removal tool to grab that lip and pull out the old seal. Be careful around this area. You don't want to gouge the differential and create a permanent leak.
19. Seating the new seal will be the fun you get to have. Whatever you do, you don't want to start tapping the edge of the seal and working your way around. You want to use something that will allow you to seat the seal evenly as you tap it in. Again, I used the tool that I bought that the TSB called for. I heard a block of wood works well and I've heard that they make universal seal installing tools. Whatever you decide to use, make sure you keep these tips in mind or make sure you buy a bunch of seals. :willy:
20. After you get the seal installed, you want to physically and visually inspect your work. Run your fingers around the edges of the seal. You should not feel any gap between the edge of the seal and the differential. If you do, you still need to tap, tap, tap-a-roo.
One thing that you want to inspect is the wiring harness back here. The factory electrical tape that was on mine had began to come unraveled. Thus, I re-wrapped it with one piece of tape and zipped tied the ends. I didn't have a black tie wrap but at least it doesn't show with the wheel on!
21. Now you are ready to put everything back together. Just reverse these steps and you should be fine. Remember to use the torque settings that I provided here for everything but the brakes bolts and here for the brake bolts. You need to take the car for a ride in order to check for leaks and heat up the differential fluid. The fluid needs to be changed while it is hot and care needs to be taken so that you don't burn yourself.
22. Once you get back in the garage, draining the differential is no major undertaking. The drain bolt is located directly on the bottom. Remember, you want to drain the fluid while it is hot. Make sure that the car is level when you drain and fill the differential. Here's where a 4 post lift would come in handy.
23. After you have drained the fluid and replaced the drain plug, you'll need to fill the differential with new fluid. As you can see by the location of the fill plug, this is a tad bit difficult.
Fill the differential up to the bottom of the fill hole. It holds about 2 quarts of fluid.
You can drop by you local auto store and buy a siphon to fill the differential. This is what I bought, although its crappy design is why I have to clean up the garage floor now:
If you get one of these (I think it was $10), make sure that when you are using it to siphon any type of thick fluid that you hold on tightly to the output side hose! Not doing so will cause it to blow away from the siphon pump and shoot a healthy wad of whatever you are pumping all over the place. As you can see by my garage floor, it was not a pretty sight!
Once you get the differential fluid in, make sure that you do not go WOT for a minimum of 300 miles. Doing so may result in scoring of the ring and pinion gears leading to differential noise!!!
I will probably be updating this over the next few days if I see any mistakes so give me a few days before printing it.
Here she is, all assembled and cleaned up:
Alrighty then! You now have the knowledge necessary to tackle this job. I will have Rosie O'Donnell inspecting your butts for leaks at the next gathering and I hear she hates wearing gloves! 