How to Change the Rotors on a C6 Corvette
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FRONT:
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Remove the wheel. To remove the rotor you need to remove the caliper and the bracket. There are 2 bolts for the caliper (top smaller bolt circled on the left), and 2 for the bracket (top larger bolt circled on the right).
HINT - You gain a lot of space to access these bolts if you turn the steering wheel opposite the side you are working on. If you don't do this you are going to have difficulty getting the bolts out (especially the ones holding the bracket) and then torquing them on reassembly - the bracket bolts torque to 125 ft/lbs!
Before you start in on the caliper, find something to rest it on when you remove it from the bracket. It is NOT a good idea to leave it hanging by the brake hose.
Some people hang the caliper using wire or a coat hanger, but I always found it easier to just use a small box slid under the wheelwell.
Once the caliper bolts are out, rest the caliper on the box so it's not straining the brake hose.
Now remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket (circled above). Notice how much more room you get by turning the wheel - you should be able to get in there with a long ratchet, breaker bar, or impact gun.
Pads do not have to be removed - they will come out with the bracket. If they fall out just reinstall them on reassembly.
With that out of the way you need to remove the 2 retaining rings that hold the rotor onto the studs. These are used to hold the rotor on during manufacturing, they are not needed now.
I just pry up on one end so I can grab it with needlenose pliers and twist it to snap it off.
At this point you *should* just be able to pull the rotor right off. If not, try using some penetrating oil between the hub and rotor giving it time to work.
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the pistons in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the fronts are done.
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REAR:
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It's actually the same process as the front except you don't have the luxury of turning the wheels to allow access. The caliper bolts should be easy, but the brackets can be a challenge.
If access with your long ratchet is a problem (as in it will not fit in the wheelwell) raise the rear of the car enough so you can get at these bolts from the bottom. And REMEMBER to use jack stands!
Same set of bolts we did on the front, located here on the rear caliper (I had loosened one already).
Remove the caliper and set it aside.
Remove the bracket bolts.
Remove the retaining clips and discard.
Slide rotor off. Again, it may be stuck
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is again just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the piston in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the rears are done.
The whole process took a few hours. I changed pads while I was at it and, since there seemed to be a light oily residue on the rotors, I washed them in some dish detergent before installing.
I would have usually just used brake cleaner but Baer recommends no harsh chemicals....and if brake cleaner isn't harsh, I don't know what is.
Caveats
1) GM states NOT to reuse the caliper bracket bolts. The new ones will come with "adhesive" already applied.
2) I was changing out pads at the same - if you are not doing so you might want to skip the removal of the caliper to the bracket, may save you a few steps.
Corvette C6 Z06 Transmission Fluid Change
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* Small 3/8" Wrench or Large Wrench with a 3/8" Extension
* Oil Drain
* Suitable Pump / Transfer Tube (I got the pictured Pennzoil Pump from my local Kragen)
* 4 Quarts Trans Fluid (p/n 88861800 for GM fluid)
* Drain Plug Sealant (p/n 12346004). Note: I've never used this stuff. The red stuff applied at the factory seems to keep the plug sealed for years and many, many fluid changes -- experience from my C5Z06. But it is listed in the Service Manual.
Step 1) Raise Car
Car must be level once raised to get an accurate fluid level reading.
Step 2) Locate Trans Fill and Drain Plugs
Fill Plug is on Driver's side of Trans; Drain Plug is on Passenger's side.
Note the number of exposed threads on each.
Step 3) Optional: Remove Electrical Connector from Trans Temp Sensor
This gets the wire out of the way of the fill plug.
Unclip it using your finger, and pull out.
Step 4) Open Fill Plug
I'm a big believer in opening the fill plug, before dumping the fluid out 
Place Oil Drain under Fill Plug
Insert the end of the 3/8" Wrench or 3/8" Extension into the Fill Plug (no socket is required) and open.
A little fluid may dribble out.
Wrench inserted into Fill Plug (behind Trans Temp Sensor):
Step 5) Open Drain Plug
Place Oil Drain under Drain Plug
Insert the end of the 3/8" Wrench or 3/8" Extension into the Drain Plug (no socket is required) and open.
Step 6) Close Drain Plug
Once fluid is drained, close the Drain Plug
Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N*M) or tighten until the original # of threads are exposed (step 2)
Step 7) Fill Trans with Fluid
Insert Pump / Transfer Tube into fill port and add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling.
Mine took ~3.5 quarts.
* From Service Manual: Fill the transmission with manual transmission fluid, until even with the bottom of the fill plug hole. *
Pump in place:
Overflow draining out:
Step 
Close Fill Plug
Torque to 20 lb-ft (27 N*M) or tighten until the original # of threads are exposed (step 2)
Step 9) Reinsert Electrical Connector into Trans Temp Sensor
Step 10) Lower Car and go for a Test Drive
That's it… enjoy your new Transmission fluid!
Special thanks to "Dreamin" from the Corvette forum for this contribution
Installing a Corvette C6 ZR1 Carbon Fiber Splitter
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Thanks to Gene I finally got a ZR1 splitter to put on my Katech Z. I thought I'd document the installation process with lots of pictures for folks like me that need pictures. I'm assuming that you're going to install the support brace that goes behind the front fascia as well. The first step is to remove the front fascia, this also makes an excellent time to install a front tow hook like the removable one that Phoenix Performance sells. Start by putting the car up in the air and removing the front wheels. You could do this entire procedure on jack stands but I had a lift. I put some painters tape along the top of the front fascia and where it meets the fenders on either side. I found the last time I did this those areas are prone to get scratched or scuffed if you aren't careful. Especially the top of the fascia when you go to put it back on. |
Unhook the two tabs in the same area 
In each wheel well first remove the five T-15 screws 
Then the 3 push pins to loosen up the wheel well liner 
Peel back the wheel well liner then disconnect the turn signal bulb by turning then pulling the bulb and wire out. You also need to disconnect the fog lights from the wires. 
Remove the two 10MM nuts holding the fascia to the fender. 
Under the front bumper remove two 10mm nuts (these are the silver ones with integrated washers 
Remove the five center 7 mm screws (really 3 in the center and one on each side slightly back and set in a well). 
With the 3 center screws removed you can now pull the flexible flap back and see up in to the area behind the grill. Right above where the flap is and off to either side is a push pin (these are the kind you need to pry out rather than those with a removable center). Use a screwdriver or better yet the proper tool to remove these push pins. In the same area on one side you will see that the plastic trim has a slot with a pin through it. Pull the trim piece toward you and unhook it from the pin. I couldn't get a good picture of this area due to space constraints so here's where the push pin was after I pulled the fascia out. 
At this point the fascia is almost free. Make sure hood is open and lift up the part of the fascia under the hood where you previously removed the four screws and the tab. On the far corners of this same area the fascia will still be held in place by a metal clip that snaps in to a slot in the fascia. Just grab the fascia all the way in the upper corner by the headlight and pull straight up. The fascia should pull out of the clip. Do the same on the other side. Here's what it looks like once it's unclipped 
At this point make sure the fascia is off of the studs connecting it to the fenders, make sure the brake duct pieces are out of their slots, and just lift a bit and pull the entire fascia off as a unit. If you missed a step you'll know it now so go slow and if you feel something caught go see what you missed. I'll also note that it's a tight fit to clear the part where it goes under the front of the hood. You might have to experiment with closing the hood first but make sure you don't pinch the fascia when closing the hood. Here's what the removed fascia looks like from the back 
Remove the push pins inside the grill and pull the grill out the front. Here's a couple pics of the new splitter as well as a comparison of the two. 
Here is the new support piece that goes inside the front fascia and becomes the new mount point for the splitter. 
At this point I removed the two plastic reinforcement pieces already inside the fascia. The new support goes in front of them and while you might be able to wedge it around them I thought it best just to remove the existing pieces and then put them back after the new support was in. The first support is held on with two push pins and four 7mm screws. 
Then there are two more screws on each side holding the last support to the fascia. Here is a quick pic of those pieces removed. 
The new support just drops in around the grill opening. I had just set the whole fascia on the couch in the garage to work on so it didn't get scratched up. 
Now remove the 7mm screws that are holding the old splitter on and remove all but the 3 outer clips since you will be screwing directly to the support now. 
Go ahead and line up the new splitter and start screwing it to the clips. There are four clips in locations from the original spoiler that you will no longer use and four new ones with holes already in the new splitter and the support (with clips). The new holes are on either side of the openings in the splitter. I went ahead and installed all the screws I already had holes for as this made sure the support and splitter were already aligned. Then I drilled out the fascia for the four remaining and installed them. 
As the saying goes installation is the opposite of removal. Just like with removal getting the top of the fascia under the front of the hood is a bit tough but doable. This is why I used the masking tape to keep from scratching it. Also if you're having trouble getting the rest to bolt up make sure that you're clear of the foam bumper support. I wasn't and had to reach up from underneath to lift the fascia over the foam bumper. Here are a couple pics of the finished project. When we get some decent weather and I can get out in the daylight I'll take some better pictures and post them. You'll notice that I also added the RPI painted ZR1 spoiler. Now I just need those sided skirts. 
Thanks to "Dreamin" from the Corvette Forum for this contribution.
Corvette C6 Z06 Air Filter Element Replacement
This is a very easy procedure... it takes ~15 minutes.
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06.
Tools
* Flat Blade Screwdriver
* T25 Torx bit, with suitable attachment
* Optional: Screwdriver with a "V-shaped" head
Step 1) Remove Two Retaining Pins
Use Flat Blade or "V-shaped" Screwdriver and lift the center of the push-pin
Step 2) Loosen Worm-Clamp on Accordian Coupler
Use Flat Blade Screwdriver and loosen Worm-Clamp. You dont need to 'open' it completely, just loosen it a fair amount.
Step 3) Disconnect Intake from Accordian Coupler
Push end of Acordian toward rear of car
Move/wiggle intake until it's free and place on top of Accordian (Be careful not to strain MAF Wires)
Carefully Flip Intake over and place on left side of engine (Be careful not to strain MAF Wires)
Note: I did not disconnect the MAF Sensor Wiring Harness, there is enough slack to place the intake as shown.
Step 4) Check for oil in Intake and Accordion
Dry:
Step 5) Remove Filter Frame
Remove 6 T25 Torx Screws
Pull Frame toward you
Step 6) Remove Filter Element
With frame removed, pull element out toward you.
Step 7) Replace Filter Element
Push new element into intake, and reverse the above steps.
Thanks to CorvetteForum User "Dreamin" for the article.
How to Replace a Corvette C5 Convertible Power Antenna
How To Replace a Defective Telescopic Antenna
Now this is a simple mod and the OEM assembly with motor is $130+. You'll know you have the problem because the antenna won't fully retract
Parts:
Adjustable wrench
GM OEM Power Antenna Replacement ($13 E Bay). 
Make sure the antenna is fully retracted and that the radio is off
Remove the antenna mounting nut located on the base of the mast on the outside of the car. If the mast is bent it may be necessary to cut off the old mast). If you can't all of the plastic cable out as one piece, (sometimes the plastic gets really hard and breaks into pieces then falls down into the motor), you can just pull the motor after you have pulled the mast out and get all of the pieces out. To do that you'll need to take out the outer right turn signal housing.
Turn on the radio and pull out the old mast and serrated cable completely out of the antenna motor. (Note which way the serrations on the cable are facing)
Feed the serrated cable of the new mast into the antenna hole and stop when resistance is felt. (about 12"). Make sure the cable is fed in with the teeth the same way the old cable came out.
Turn the radio off to lower the antenna until the serrated cable catches.. You may have to cycle the antenna a few times until the cable catches the gear mechanism and retracts into the antenna motor.
Replace and tighten the antenna nut into the mast base.
Turn on and make sure that the mast fully extends without binding. Clean the surface of the antenna to remove any adhesive etc.
10 minute job.
If you encounter a stuck mast here's advice from the mast vendor:
You see the new "Retaining Sleeve" (silver, 2 inches or so, with slots) on the shaft of the new antenna mast, the original one is most likely a little corroded/frozen into the shaft of your antenna No problem : You are in need of what I refer to as the "snap and tap" technique of mast removal
Turn radio on and let cycle to as much extension as is currently possible
Take hold of the thickest metal mast section (closest to fender) with you thumb and forefinger about 2-3 inches above the top of the antenna shaft hole
Push the thickest mast section into the shaft (as much as it will go within that 2-3 inches)
Hold tightly with thumb and forefinger and Snap your Wrist upward.....you will hear the mast bottom "tap" the bottom of the frozen in place retaining sleeve (what this is all about) Repeat this over and over again In-Snap-Tap-Repeat Short Firm Bursts of Energy Focusing the energy blow to the point of the tap This will free the retaining sleeve little by little till it comes out completely
How to Change your Brake Pads on a Corvette C6 Z06
Tools Needed:
- Jack and jack stands
- Lug wrench to take off the wheels
- 13/16" socket for the caliper bolts
- Clamp to compress pistons
- Flat head screwdriver
- Allen wrench/sockets for caliper pins (only if your one-piece pads don't need them)
- Mallet, prybar, or hammer to assist with rotor removal
Brake pads:
Step 1: Jack up your car and take off the wheels.
Step 2: Locate the two big caliper bolts and unbolt them. They're on tight, so it will take some effort. The bolts are marked with red dots in the picture:
Step 3: Pry off the caliper. The pads are still pressing against the rotor somewhat, so this also takes a bit of force, but you should have no problem doing it by hand.
Step 4: Make sure the caliper is supported by something (box/brick/etc) so it's not hanging by the brake line. Pry out the padlettes. There are 6 total in each front caliper and 4 total in each rear.
If you're installing one-piece pads that don't have holes for the pins, you will need to remove the pins marked in blue. Carbotechs pads do have holes, so leave the pins in place
Step 5: Compress the pistons (push them into the caliper) so the new pads will have room to clear the rotor.
NOTES:
- Cleaning around the pistons first will help you prevent scratching the bores.
- You can leave your pads in which can make this step easier.
- Be careful when doing this as you can easily damage your caliper paint if using a metal clamp.
- This pushes fluid back into the brake system. The brake fluid reservoir may overflow, so watch out.
- You can also open a bleeder valve which pushes the old fluid out instead of back into the system, just be careful and don't get any fluid on your caliper paint.
Step 6: Put your new pads in, put the caliper back on, and tighten the caliper bolts to 175Nm / 129lb ft. If you removed the pad pins and need to re-install them, torque them to 40Nm / 30lb ft. I went with posiquiets as I'm a cheap bastard (old pads on the bottom):
Before you start driving, be sure to pump your brakes until you have a firm pedal. This pushes the pads back into contact with the rotors and prevents you from having a possible accident.
Note about brake fluid: You don't need to bleed your brakes when you change your pads. For a non-tracked car, I recommend bleeding the brakes every 1-2 years. For a track car, this should be done as often as possible since fresh fluid will always help you brake better.
Rotors:
Step 1: Follow Steps 1-3 above in the Brake Pad section.
Step 2: If this is your first time taking off your rotors, there's a clip that you'll need to cut/pry off:
Step 3: Smack the back of the rotor until it comes loose, preferably with something that won't scratch it. You can also use a hammer or something similar to pry them off as shown in the picture. If removing the rear rotors, make sure the parking brake is off.
Step 4: You're done! When you put a rotor back on, you don't need the clip to hold it on. This is only used to assist in assembly at the factory. The wheels will hold the rotor for you.
Created by LMBTom from the Corvette Forum
How to remove the Fuel Line on a Corvette C6 to install painted Fuel Rail Covers
Here is a quick "how to" on adding painted Fuel Rail Cover's by removing the fuel line. Let me preface this by saying it may not be the best method but the one I prefer. I know some do the tape and bend method but I tried that and still ended up scratching my freshly painted FRC's. Obviously mine are already installed.
Also, this isn't a very difficult thing to do but please understand that some people don't want to start pulling things off and removing parts from their Vette without knowing what they are getting in to.
IMPORTANT: Let the engine cool completely before removing the fuel line. A little gas may spill out and you don't want it dripping on to a hot engine.
This is the removal tool you will need. I bought it at Autozone but I'm sure you can find it or similar at any auto parts store. You need a 3/8" size.
Let's start with the easy (passenger) side just to see how they go on and off. 
First remove the oil fill cap then simply pull up on the edges of the FRC.
This is what it looks like under there.
The FRC's just snap right on with the clips and posts. Both sides snap on the same way but the fuel line is in the way on the driver's side.
Now on to the driver's side (and fuel line removal).
The fuel line actually connects in two places (under the FRC or at the firewall). You can remove it in either location but I prefer disconnecting it under the FRC.
Pull the FRC off from the top carefully to access the fuel line. (I removed it for the purpose of taking pictures so you can see what is going on. Just follow the steps while the FRC is still on.) It's a little tight under there but just be careful.
Before you remove the fuel line put a towel or rag under it to catch any fuel that leaks out. 
There is a locking clip that needs to come off first.
Pull it up on this end then it slides right out.
Next, take the tool with the 3/8" side and place it on the fuel line. 
Then you need to push it in to the coupling (arrow shows direction). It takes a little force but as you push it in you just pull the connection apart.
Here it is apart.
Now just slide the stock FRC off and put the painted one on, carefully feeding the fuel line through the hole. (You can use a little blue painter's tape around the hole/slit in the FRC to be extra careful)
Now reinstall the fuel line by pushing it back together (arrow shows direction) and you will hear and feel a "click" as it goes back on. Then place the locking clip back by sliding it on and clipping it back down.
Snap the FRC back on and you're finished. Now step back and enjoy !!
Cleaning Your Corvette C5 Radiator
Cleaning Your Radiator and Condenser - The Quick Overheating Fix
Source: Junkman-Digital Corvettes Forum Member
This DIY is more of a band-aid repair for those who have heating issues. It will help most and depending on what is stuffed up in your radiator/condenser area, it may help a lot. If you manage to get a lot of dirt, twigs, grass and leaves out of these areas, you will see a significant improvement. For those who have heavily modified engines, you may want to just invest in a bigger radiator.
First, a little knowledge on overheating. One misconception that runs rampant is that installing a lower temperature thermostat will cure overheating issues. This is quite far from the truth (I use to think this also). I'll give you a perfect example.
If it took you 2 hours to get to work because:
- Traffic was so thick that no one could drive over 15mph.
- The road that you took to work could not handle the amount of traffic on the road.
- Most of the people commuting on this road were not going to work, but were 90 year old gray hairs who were just out to take in the scenery.
- Your car had only 23 horsepower.
So what do you do? You go out and buy a 2009 Z06 with every horsepower option there was. Your new Vette can do 0-60 in 2.9 seconds. You leave for work in your new beast and arrive at work 1 minute later than you did in that 23 horsepower beater. Why? Because you never addressed the other variables which are more important than the horsepower of your old beater.
The thermostat simply regulates the minimum temperature of the cooling system. As the coolant heats up the thermostat begins to open at the specified temperature and allow coolant to flow through the radiator at a higher rate.
When you start your car the t-stat is "closed" (some coolant still flows by) and the majority of the coolant circulates through the block (etc...) as it comes up to temperature.
So by installing a lower temperature t-stat, it will allow the coolant to begin flowing through the radiator at a lower temp and slow the warming of the car (not hold it steady).
It will not lower the maximum temperature or operating temperatures of the system. This is a common misconception. It takes a larger radiator and/or improved air flow to lower operating temperatures when moving, and you will need to set your fans to come on sooner to lower temperatures when driving in stop and go traffic. This is true for modified engines.
If your engine is NOT modified, you need to address the problem that is creating your overheating issues, not redesign the system as you would on a modified engine. If you address the problem, your overheating issues will disappear. That I know from experience with my stock engine.
There is one disadvantage in installing a 160 degree thermostat. If you do lots of short trips in a cold climate, the car will never reach its designed operating temperature. You want the oil to get to at least 190 degrees every drive in order to evaporate any condensation in the oil.
Now that you realize that there are multiple variables that need to be addressed in order to lower your temperatures, get up under that puppy and check the radiator and the condenser for anything that may be blocking air flow. I had Jimmy Hoffa stuck in mine. Okay, maybe it was just a bag but that one plastic bag made my temperatures go through the roof. Twigs and grass clippings will do the same thing.
With all that said, let's get to work!
- Unclip the air filter retaining clamps. This is a perfect opportunity to replace the air filter with a K&N air filter. A much better filter than those crappy paper ones.
- Situate the clamps out of the way.
- Raise and remove the air bridge retaining pins.
- Loosen the screw that holds the air bridge onto the throttle body.
- Next, loosen the bolt at the other end of the air bridge.
- Now this step was a PITA for me. You want to disconnect the MAF sensor. I, for the sake of all that is ugly about Lyle Lovett could not get that plug off. I didn't want to pull too hard because I knew that breaking it would throw all kinds of codes once I started the engine. Thus, I left it connected and loosened up its harness by removing it from the clamp that holds the cable in place. You'll notice that the MAF sensor is still in place in the following pictures.
- Now you're ready to remove the radiator support which is held in place by 4 bolts.
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This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. |
- Now you'll be able to see all that crap that is causing your temperatures to go through the roof.
- IMPORTANT: Forcing high PSI's of air or water into the radiator or condenser will cause the fins on the units to bend and close, thus rendering these units useless! You must use extreme care when messing around these units so that you do not destroy them!
Now here comes the fun part. You need to delicately brush the dirt off of the front of both the condenser and the radiator. I cannot stress enough how delicate you need to be. This is why I will be pulling my radiator out of the car this winter so that I can do this the right way. I may even replace the radiator with a bigger and better one. Once you have brushed as much dirt off the front of the units, use low PSI's of compressed air to blow out as much debris as possible. After you have removed as much debris as you can with air, finish the cleaning with water. You only want to blow air and water into these units in one direction.
Blowing in the other direction only causes stuff to further lodge itself into the units. Now the tricky part is finding a brush, hose, or air tool that will fit in between these units. Again, this is why I will be removing mine. There are devices out there, you just have to do some hunting for them. I just wiggled stuff around and did the best I could. My cleaning did make a difference but I still can see junk stuck in both units. Once you remove the radiator, cleaning the condenser is rather easy.
- Once you finish cleaning, do the entire engine. Then move on to the car. As you can see, I only work on mine when it's dirty!
That's it boys and girls. Get out there and drop them temps!
1997 – 2004: Corvette C5 Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure
1997 - 2004: Corvette C5 Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure
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Subject: Headlamp Actuator Replacement Procedure The CAC has been a very helpful resource so I thought I'd give back some pics and explanations of my first DIY repair project on my '97 yesterday. The driver side headlight actuator needed to be replaced. Decided to do it myself after c4c5's recommendations and it went without a hitch. So here are a few pics I took trying to explain the process for others that want to do this simple repair. Hope it helps.
As for all electrical work, first remove the negative lead on the battery as noted in the service manuals.
Now you can disconnect the main wiring harness (Fig. 6) and reach behind the lamps to disconnect those wiring harnesses (Figs. 7, 8). Be sure to note which one goes where. They are color coded.
I used a bungee cord to support the headlamp assembly (Figs. 9 and 11 (my wife was too busy to help). The assembly will have nothing holding it up once the actuator is removed. I made sure that the bungee didn't put too much pressure on the unit. Just enough to hold it up.
These are not the easist to get to but you can reach under the lamp assembly with your right hand to slip a 10mm socket on the inside nut of the through bolt and hold the outside bolt head with a 10 mm box end wrench using your left hand (Fig. 13). You'll have to reach around the actuator and under the headlamp assemble to get your right hand in there. I did it pretty much by feel and worked the 10mm socket wrench in there to remove the actuator bolts and the nut on the pivot arm. (Figs. 15, 14 respectively). Figure 16 shows the slotted hole on the pivot arm that will aligned with the shaft on the actuator.
Figures 17 and 18 shows the four locations for the bolts and the shaft nut for the pivot arm. |
Down South Vettes Leather Sun Visor Installation
Difficulty: 3 out of 5.
Time: Plan on about 30 minutes.
The tools used are:
A medium blade screw driver
A small flashlight may help get a better look at the work location as you start.
Let's get a look at the project. If you have a coupe, you may want to remove the roof. If
you have a convertible you may want to lower the top. This will both make maneuvering
the visor assembly easier but it will also provide you with better lighting in the cockpit for
your task.
Here are a few side by side comparison photos of the new Down South Vettes visor and how
it compares to the OEM unit you will be replacing.
The DSV unit starts with an OEM core and removes the fabric treatment and replaces it with
the same high quality leather used in each of the other interior parts
The leather treatment to the sun visor will add a little bit of thickness to the unit.
Start the installation by tipping the sun visor down towards the windshield as if you were
trying to block out the sun while driving.
Next, unhook the sun visor from the latch up on the windshield frame. Once you have done
this it may be a good time to grab your flashlight and take a look at the steps that you will
be doing next. In the picture below you will see the screwdriver placed near the slot that
you will use to release the sun visor from the pillar.
To describe the task, you need to place your screw driver up in to this slot as shown here
Now, while pressing your screwdriver up in to this slot you need to press firmly with your
left hand and using your right hand, rotate the entire sun visor assembly counter-clockwise
(counter-clockwise for the driver side, clockwise for the passenger side) back towards you
as if you were moving the lowered sun visor from the windshield to the side window. It
should only take about a quarter of a revolution of the bezel as pictured above. This
quarter turn will translate to about 45 degrees of the sun visor relative to the windshie ld. If
the windshield is 0 degrees and the side window is 90 you should end up about halfway in
between. You will feel it when it unlocks. You will see that the bezel is no longer seated
against the roof. It will look like this:
Once the bezel and the assembly are unlocked from the car you will need to pull down on
the sun visor arm to remove it from the hole. You may need to work it back a forth slightly
to free it from the car. Don't pull down too hard. Firm is fine but be prepared for it to come
loose. Now that it is loose from the car you still have the connector assembly to contend
with. You may need to reach up inside the opening to free the connector. The connector
looks like this:
To disconnect the connector you will need your screwdriver again to free the clip from the
detent on the mating connector. You can see the slot for the detent pictured below. Insert
the screwdriver in the top righthand corner and gently pry forward until the clip is above the
height of the small tab. This will allow you to pull on the connector and free the visor.
Once you have the connector disconnected it should still have the bezel attached and look
like this:
Now you need to remove the bezel from the visor assembly. If you look down at the
connector end and bezel you will notice three locking tabs on the bezel that hold it on the
visor assembly.
Using one hand to hold the visor assembly near the arm, with your other hand you need to
pull out on the three tabs to free them from the locked position on the visor assembly.
Once the bezel is unlocked it will float freely on the visor arm.
To remove, align the triangle on the bezel with the triangle on the visor arm and you can
slide the bezel up and off the visor assembly. Now just free the connector from the bezel.
Pick up the new Down South Vettes visor and take note of the shape of the locking
mechanism at the connector end. You will notice three distinct shapes to the corners of the
connector triangle.
Each corner has a different radius and will match up with a radius on the bezel as pictured
here:
Match the shape on the bezel with the same size shape on the visor assembly and slide the
bezel over the connector and down onto the visor assembly. When you first slide it on it will
look like this:
While looking from the top down as pictured above, rotate the bezel clockwise and you will
feel it lock in to place on the visor assembly. Once locked it will look like this:
With one tab of the bezel now aligned with each tab of the visor assembly. You should also
notice that the base of the bezel as viewed from the side is now flush with base of the visor
connector mount. You are now ready to put your new visor back in the car.
Grab your screw driver as you will need to reverse the steps you took to get the visor out of
the car. Place the visor up on end in your lap and re-connect the visor electrical plug:
You now need to tuck the connector back up into the frame. Tuck it up in towards the
rearview mirror side.
It's time to push the visor assembly and bezel back up in to the frame. There is only one
way for it to go back up into the car. You may need to work it a little bit to find the location
but try to remember the angle at which the visor was at when you removed it. Once you
find the slot for the latch to go into, slide it up and press it firmly in place. You will need to
hold it in place and reach for your screw driver. It should look about like this:
All that's left to do is latch the assembly back in to place. You will need to use your
screwdriver and place it back in the slot like you did to remove it. This time, place the
screw driver to the right side of the visor arm (This is for the driver's side. In either case,
place it into the slot and have the shaft of the screwdriver on the rearview mirror side of the
visor arm.) While pressing up firmly on the screwdriver rotate the visor and bezel assembly
from the arm pressing against the screwdriver blade and this will cause the bezel to rotate
and latch into place on the car. Congratulations, you've just installed your new visors.
