How to change the oil on the Corvette Z06 and ZR1
Changing Engine Oil and Filter (ZO6, ZR1, and Grand Sport)
These vehicles have a racetrack‐ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high‐performance system operates differently than a standard engine
lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil
and filter.
ZO6 Shown, ZR1 and Grand Sport Similar
A. Engine Oil Drain Plugs
B. Seals
1. Remove the two engine oil drain plugs from the bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug drains the external oil tank via the oil transfer supply line.
The other drain plug drains residual oil from the crankcase sump. Allow the oil to drain.
2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.
3. Re‐install both drain plugs and tighten them to 25Y (18 lb ft).
4. Replace the oil filter and tighten it to 30Y (22 lb ft).
5. Oil is filled through the opening in the top of the external engine oil tank. Remove the oil fill cap.
6. Add 9.9 L (10.5 quarts) of oil to the oil tank.
7. Install the oil fill cap and insert the dipstick, if removed.
8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system.
9. Shut off the engine and check the oil level as described under "Checking Engine Oil (ZO6, ZR1, and Grand Sport)."
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
SAE 5W-30
SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life
System
The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it
can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on,
reset the system.
To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change:
1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE REMAINING 100% will appear.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system
has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
How to Program your Corvette Car2u or Homelink Garage Door Opener
I know it seems simple, but you would be surprised how many times we get this question…"How do you program your Car2u or Homelink Corvette visor garage door openers?". Really simple follow the steps below and you will be done in 30 seconds flat.
First we will show you how to do the Car2U Corvette Garage door opener (Corvette produced after 2006 have this system).
Programming a Rolling Code Garage Door Opener (Majority of units sold after 1996)
1 Press the outer two Universal Home Remote (UHR) buttons simultaneously and release them after they both light up.
2 Place you garage door opener into "learn" mode by pressing the small colored button on the back of the opener in the garage. This may require the use of a ladder; follow all safety precautions.
3 The LED on the garage door opener will go on immediately.
4 Press and hold the button on the Car2U Visor buttons that you want to use for operation of the garage door opener.
5 Watch for the garage door to activate.
6 When the garage door activates, release the button and depress again the selected button to lock in the program.
7 Programming of Rolling Code garage door opener is now complete
Programming a Fixed Code Device (Majority of units made prior to 1996)
1 Open your Garage door remote control and look at the dip switches in the battery compartment. Your remote control your remote may have 8–12 DIP switches.
2 Record the transmitter's DIP switch settings on the chart above (Figure 3), starting with the first switch position. If the switch is in the up, + or on position, circle "left." If the switch is in the middle, 0 or neutral position, circle "middle." If
the switch is in the down, - or off position, circle "right."
3 Press all three Car2U Visor buttons simultaneously and release.
4 Enter your corresponding DIP switch settings into your Car2U by pressing and releasing the buttons corresponding to the settings you circled in chart. If "left" is circled on your chart, press the left button. If "right" is circled, press the right button.
5 When you are done entering all the DIP switch settings, press all three UHR buttons simultaneously and release.
6 Press and hold the button that you want to use for operation. Watch for the garage door to activate.
7 When the garage door activates, release the button and depress again the selected button to lock in the program.
6 Programming of the Fixed Code device is now complete
Now here is how to do the HomeLink Corvette Garage Door Opener (prior to 2006 Corvettes).
For first time programming, press and hold the two outer HomeLink buttons, releasing only when the HomeLink indicator light begins to flash after 20 seconds. (Do not perform this step when programming the additional HomeLink buttons.)
Position the hand-held transmitter 1-3 inches away from the HomeLink surface (located on your visor), keeping the HomeLink indicator light in view. Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the desired HomeLink button and hand held transmitter button. DO NOT release until the HomeLink indicator light flashes slowly and then rapidly. When the indicator light flashes rapidly, both buttons may be released. (The rapid flashing indicates successful training.)
Note: Some garage door openers may require you to replace step 3 with the "cycling" procedure noted in the "View Canadian Instructions" section. Press and hold the trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light. If the indicator light is solid/continuous, training is complete and your device should activate when the HomeLink button is pressed and released.
If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns a solid/continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device. A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device. Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps. At the garage door opener receiver (motorhead unit), locate the "learn" or "smart" button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door openers manual or Homelink.
Press and release the "learn" or "smart" button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer). NOTE: Once the button is pressed, there are 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.Return to the vehicle and firmly press and hold the trained HomeLink button for two seconds and release. Repeat the "press/hold/release" sequence up to 3 times to complete the training process. Retain the original hand-held transmitter of the RF device you are programming for use in other vehicles, as well as for future HomeLink® programming. It is also suggested that upon the sale of the vehicle, the programmed HomeLink buttons be erased for security purposes. To erase the programmed buttons, perform the procedure shown in step number 1.
How do you check the Engine Codes on a C5 Corvette?
If you have not experienced it yet, one day you will. You will go to start the Corvette or you may be enroute your destination when it happens:
So there you are, trying not to panic. The thing is, that sucker is annoying! It's like having a piece of lettuce stuck in your teeth on a blind date with Daisy Fuentes. It feels like it depreciates your Vette's value by at least $10,000. It screams, "I am a piece of crap!"
Well, never fear boys and girls, the Junkman is gonna help you work it out. Here's what you need to do.
1. Pull the codes! This is such a no brainer and yet, I'll see someone start a thread with the question, "Hey, my check engine light came on. What do you all think the problem is?" Answer... we don't have a clue without knowing what code is illuminating the MIL, or malfunction indicator lamp as it is technically called. How do you pull the codes? See step 2.
2. To pull the codes, turn the ignition key to the on position but DO NOT start the car. Make sure that your doors and trunk are closed so that the DIC (digital information center) doesn't start nagging you about a bunch of stuff.
Next, hit the reset button to clear any nag messages that may be on the DIC.
Then, while holding the Options button down, press the fuel button 4 times within a 10 second period.
3. At that point, the DIC will automatically start displaying all of the various modules and any codes that may be present in each module. You can stop this automatic mode and send the DIC into manual mode by pressing any button except the E/M button (that button causes the DIC to exit the diagnostic mode). You can then scroll through the codes using the Gauges button to go forward, and the Fuel button to go backwards. Here's an example of a code notification problem:
As you can see by the picture above, the Power Control Module (PCM) is displaying that it contains 2 codes. Because I have the service manual for my car, I know that the PCM is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels while maintaining excellent drivability and fuel efficiency. I also know that the PCM controls the following operations:
Fuel control
Ignition Control (IC)
Knock Sensor (KS) system
Automatic transmission shift functions
Manual Transmission: 1-4 Upshift and Reverse Inhibit
Cruise Control Enable (if so equipped)
Generator
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge
A/C Clutch Control
Cooling Fan Control
Secondary Air Injection (AIR)
Armed with this information, I now have a clue as to what area of the car to start looking at, but there's more. While in the manual mode I can look at the actual codes that exist. By hitting the Options button again while the DIC is displaying the screen above, it will show me the actual codes. Doing so resulted in the following:
The first picture shows a PCM code of P0300 H. When writing this information down (which is what you should be doing while looking at it), you MUST be sure and include the module (PCM in this case), the code (P0300) and whether or not the set code is history (H) or current (C). This is detrimental information in trouble-shooting your codes. So many times, people will just write down the numbers. You need to write down everything.
The first picture is showing a code that is history, meaning it happened in the past and is no longer a issue.
The second picture is another story. It shows a code (PCM P0440 H C) that is not only history, but is also current. That means the situation existed in the past and is now a present issue. As it turns out, when this situation happens, it will illuminate the check engine light (or MIL).
The rest of my modules contained no codes so as I scrolled through them, they all read "no codes".
Now that I am armed with a detailed error code, I can check it against a data base of all the codes that can be possibly thrown by my car. That data base is located here. Locate the year of your car and then find the code that is being thrown. That will give you a basic description of the code being thrown. However, if you have the service manual for your car, you can look up the code and get a more thorough description of the code being thrown. Here's an example using the code that I was experiencing of what you will find in the service manual. Advantage: service manual.
4. At this point, I can do a detailed check into why my car threw this code. As you can see by looking at the page with my code, it even walks me through how to resolve my issue. The description is thorough and detailed. With the right tools and the service manual, I can save myself thousands of dollars in repairs. This is why no one touches the Junkman's ride but the Junkman. I have armed myself with the tools to remedy my own issues.
5. After you pull your codes and have wrote them down, you can then clear them. Any code that sets the MIL must be cleared before the MIL will go out. In order to clear a code, you must have it displayed first and then, hold the reset button down until the code clears. It will disappear and you will hear a beep. Again, you can scroll through the codes by pressing either the Gages button to go forward, or the Fuel button to go back.
Some codes a just a fluke. Sometimes, I tell people to reset all of their codes and see if they come back. If they immediately return, then you have an issue. If it returns a year later, then it was obviously a fluke. Still, you need to keep an eye on these things because not all codes will illuminate the MIL.
Right now my cluster looks like this:
How to disable OnStar on a Corvette C6
OnStar in the C6 Corvette can easily be disabled if you no longer want to utilize it. Follow the steps below to turn the system off and still allow you to reinstall when it comes time to sell the Vette.
* Remove fuse (in-car fuse panel)
* Unplug J1, J2, J3 and antenna connectors from the OnStar module under the passenger seat
* Leave J4 connected on the OnStar module.
How to change the color of the accent LED in the C6 Corvette
There is an accent LED in the Corvette that helps to light the center console at night, providing just enough light to make the shift knob and surrounding area reflect.
The factory LED is orange and not a color that most folks enjoy.
So, time to take it apart. With a T15 torx bit, remove the sun visor clip. Pull the clip down and get the wiring connector out from the roof assembly.
Using a small flat blade screw driver, pry up the part of the connector that holds the barb, and separate the connector. Twist the LED holder out of the sun visor clip. You'll notice a small bulb near the connector in the black wire... this is the resistor that's in the line for the factory LED. For those wondering, the OEM circuit provides anywhere from 7.3V to 7.6V to this connector. This comes into play when selecting the right resistor for your LED.
Ok, so here's where you pick a color. Radioshack has some LEDs, but you have to make sure to get the high intensity ones. I happened to get part number 276-316 which is a blue LED. You can find 5mm LEDs various places online. What you want to pay attention to is the rated voltage for the LED as well as the rated operating current draw. For the Radioshack one, it was 3.7V and 20mA. In the following spread sheet, enter 7.6 as the supply voltage, 3.7V as the LED voltage, and 0.02 as the LED amperage. Looking at diagram 2, you see the resistor you need in series is 195 ohms. R1 can be ignored. Radioshack doesn't have a 195 ohm resistor, so go to the next highest... which is 220. Even the tiny 1/8 watt ones will work.
http://pages.slu.edu/student/steckdw/LED%20circuit.xls
Ok, now you know what resistor you need. Take apart the LED harness. First, pop the grey clip out by pushing a small screw driver into the barbs to release it.
Next stick a pin release tool... or a nail into the pin for the black wire, and remove the back wire pin from the connector.
Cut away the shielding over the resistor, and snip the thing out. Solder your new resistor to the black wire, and solder the other end to the pin. Try not to glob a ton of solder on the pin so that it can slide back into the connector. Wrap the resistor with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape, stick the pin back into place, and stick the grey clip back in. Replace the LED by cutting down the anode/cathode of the new one so it's the same length as the OEM one. The anode goes to the red wire connector. Go back to your car, twist the LED harness into place, and connect it back to the connector from the roof. Replace the T15 torx screw, and you're done! If you think the light is too bright, take it back apart and use a higher valued resistor.
Corvette C6 Braille Battery Relocation to Rear of Car
Here are a few pics and step by step installation of a Braille Battery with relocation to the rear of the car (like the Z06)
You will need a
Battery: Braille B2317R
Moroso battery cable kit 
This is where the fun starts, remove that old heavy ass battery 
comparing both batteries 
There are (4) 13mm bolts inside the battery tray loosen and remove
remove from inside your fuse box the 13mm nut ,remove the cable and follow it to your starter ,this is your original positive cable. Do the same steps for your negative cable. 
put the 1 gauge ground wire together which mounts to the frame and the engine block 
a little heat wrap for protection
use the same mounting bolt and location for the new ground cable
mounting the other end of the ground cable to the block, it's a 15mm bolt 
Now on to the power wire, remove the rear wheel liner 
Fish the 1 gauge wire thru the rocker panel 
connect the positive power cable to the starter 
Original Battery 34.2 lbs
Braille Battery 17 lbs
Odyssey bracket that had to be cut down an inch 
marked holes with a sharpie 
Original equipment
Battery = 34.2 lbs
Battery bracket = 1 lbs
Battery harness = 1 lbs
Total = 36.2 lbs
Battery Relocation Mod
Braille Battery = 17 lbs
Custom Battery Bracket = 0.8 lbs
14 feet of Cable = 5.2 lbs
terminal ends,bolts,nuts,etc = 0.7 lbs
Total = 23.7 lbs
36.2 lbs-23.7 lbs = 12.5 lbs weight reduction
How to Change the Rotors on a C6 Corvette
******
FRONT:
******
Remove the wheel. To remove the rotor you need to remove the caliper and the bracket. There are 2 bolts for the caliper (top smaller bolt circled on the left), and 2 for the bracket (top larger bolt circled on the right).
HINT - You gain a lot of space to access these bolts if you turn the steering wheel opposite the side you are working on. If you don't do this you are going to have difficulty getting the bolts out (especially the ones holding the bracket) and then torquing them on reassembly - the bracket bolts torque to 125 ft/lbs!
Before you start in on the caliper, find something to rest it on when you remove it from the bracket. It is NOT a good idea to leave it hanging by the brake hose.
Some people hang the caliper using wire or a coat hanger, but I always found it easier to just use a small box slid under the wheelwell.
Once the caliper bolts are out, rest the caliper on the box so it's not straining the brake hose.
Now remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket (circled above). Notice how much more room you get by turning the wheel - you should be able to get in there with a long ratchet, breaker bar, or impact gun.
Pads do not have to be removed - they will come out with the bracket. If they fall out just reinstall them on reassembly.
With that out of the way you need to remove the 2 retaining rings that hold the rotor onto the studs. These are used to hold the rotor on during manufacturing, they are not needed now.
I just pry up on one end so I can grab it with needlenose pliers and twist it to snap it off.
At this point you *should* just be able to pull the rotor right off. If not, try using some penetrating oil between the hub and rotor giving it time to work.
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the pistons in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the fronts are done.
******
REAR:
******
It's actually the same process as the front except you don't have the luxury of turning the wheels to allow access. The caliper bolts should be easy, but the brackets can be a challenge.
If access with your long ratchet is a problem (as in it will not fit in the wheelwell) raise the rear of the car enough so you can get at these bolts from the bottom. And REMEMBER to use jack stands!
Same set of bolts we did on the front, located here on the rear caliper (I had loosened one already).
Remove the caliper and set it aside.
Remove the bracket bolts.
Remove the retaining clips and discard.
Slide rotor off. Again, it may be stuck
Slide the new one on.
Reassembly is again just the reverse process:
Reinstall the bracket - torque to 125 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the caliper - torque to 23 ft/lbs. You may have to push the piston in a bit - use a c-clamp or a disk brake piston tool if necessary.
Reinstall the wheel - torque to 100 ft/lbs.
Repeat on the other side and the rears are done.
The whole process took a few hours. I changed pads while I was at it and, since there seemed to be a light oily residue on the rotors, I washed them in some dish detergent before installing.
I would have usually just used brake cleaner but Baer recommends no harsh chemicals....and if brake cleaner isn't harsh, I don't know what is.
Caveats
1) GM states NOT to reuse the caliper bracket bolts. The new ones will come with "adhesive" already applied.
2) I was changing out pads at the same - if you are not doing so you might want to skip the removal of the caliper to the bracket, may save you a few steps.
Corvette C5 Power Window Motor Rebuild
This procedure is only appropriate if:
The motor is getting power but not working. Unplug and check with voltmeter first.
The cables and all other components are in good condition. Otherwise you will need to replace the whole assembly.
The connector at the motor is making good connection. Some have reported problems with the connector itself.
If the brushes are too worn or if the commutator is melted/ burnt, it cannot be easily repaired. May as well just buy another motor.
First, pull the door panel and speakers. I used some paper towels around the big opening to keep the black sticky stuff from getting all over the place. Remove the switch assembly from the door panel and plug it back into the harness for testing. Unplug the window motor and check for power with a voltmeter. Here's a picture of the plug, and the button you have to push to pull it out:
Once you have determined that the motor is getting power, remove the regulator assembly. Once again, other instructions are very detailed how to do this. On my car ('99), the rubber on the window clamps was stuck very securely to the glass, so I had to remove the bolts completely and break the glass away from the rubber. If the clamp half sticks to the window, that's even better, it will assure you put the window back in the same place. Otherwise mark it.
Here is the regulator assembly removed :
Next, I pulled the can off the motor to inspect. This pic was actually taken during reassembly after it was all cleaned up. Now is probably the best time to remove the brush retaining springs to relieve the pressure on them. Refer to post #5.
I was able to pull the armature free from the regulator assembly without disassembling it, but then I couldn't get it back together. I recommend just taking it apart to begin with.
Rotate the armature to equalize the tension on the springs, if needed, and remove the top plate. Take note of where the cables are routed.
Here's a pic of the cover removed
*NOTE: THE CABLE CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR IS IN THE WRONG PLACE. DO NOT REASSEMBLE THIS WAY OR THERE WON'T BE ENOUGH TENSION IN THE CABLES*
(Ask me how I know.)
The spool slides right out. It looks like a mess, but goes back together relatively easy.
Finally, remove the cover and the gear. The armature will then slide out easily
Here is the motor disassembled. Note all the black junk that fell out.
A close-up of the dirty brush housing and brushes
And the armature
I used a electronics cleaner to spray everything off. On the armature, I used a dental pick to clean the slots on the commutator and very fine sandpaper to clean it up.
I found that one of the brushes had been contacting the elevated pads on the commutator, and I assume this is the reason for all the black dust. As a precautionary measure, I cut the grove a little larger and deeper to prevent further contact. Be very careful with the brushes, they are brittle and fragile. I cleaned them by scraping lightly with a razor blade.
Once everything is clean, reassemble in reverse order. The safest way to put the brush holder back onto the armature is to remove the caps and springs that hold the brushes in. Here are pics of the caps disassembled and assembled. I reached in with a dental pick to undo the clips. Keep a finger over the cap as you're removing them, as the spring has quite a bit of pressure on it.
There was plenty of grease inside the gear housings to re-lube the motor shafts (both ends) and the gears during reassembly.
When putting the spool back into place, I wound up the wires and clipped the green cable ends into place then slid the spool onto the splines.
Once everything is put back together, take it back to the car to verify that it works. My first time, the window operation was reversed. I'm not sure what caused this, but I took everything apart and put it back together, and the only thing I did differently was rotate the motor housing ("can") 180deg. This time it worked. Not sure if that was the problem or if it was something else. If anyone has input, I'd appreciate it.
A couple more notes on reassembly: The rear lower track bolt is adjustable. As you're removing the nut off the stud, hold the stud to assure it does not turn. Same with reassembly. The front lower track bolt is also adjustable in a slot. If you forgot to mark where it was, you can probably look closely and see a dust/ wear ring where it was previously mounted.
And here is where the zip-tie retainer clip fastens to the door. It is important, as it keeps the cables out of the window as it goes down.
Corvette C6 A-Pillar Fuel and Boost Gauge Installation
1. Check your gauges before you take them out of the packaging to make sure they are at 0
(zero) psi for both boost and fuel pressure.
2. Read through the instructions supplied with the gauges you purchased. These instructions
are how we install the gauges when you bring your car to us. There may be better, faster or
cheaper ways to do it, but this is what we have found to be the best.
3. In addition to the gauge pod and the boost and fuel pressure gauges, you will need two (2)
48" pieces of 16 gauge wire. (Preferably two different colors so you don't cross the wires.)
Electrical tape, soldering iron and heat shrink tubing.
4. We highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking all wiring connections mentioned in
these instructions
5. Connect the white wire from both lights together and also connect a wire about 48" to the
other side. This wire will go to a dimmer wire in a harness under the dash near the steering
column.
6. Find the loose black wire that comes off the fuel pressure gauge harness. This is the gauge
ground wire and will need to be shortened to around 12". Connect the black wire from
both lights together and also add the ground wire that you just shortened. Connect all 3 of
these wires to a piece of wire about 48". This will be your ground wire that will be fastened
under the dash near the steering column. You should have something similar to the photo
below.
7. Attach the nylon vacuum tubing and brass fitting that came with your gauge to the back of
the boost gauge. Attach the harness to the fuel pressure gauge. Attach both lights to the
gauges. Have the lines running out the face of the pod but don't push the gauges into the
pod yet.
8. Using some electrical tape, tape all the wires together for about 15". When you do this,
make sure to leave the gauges about 2-3 inches out of the pod so you will have room to
remove the gauges in the future should the need arise.
9. Push gauges all the way in the gauge pod and place the pod over the stock pillar. Do not
drill and mount the gauge pod over the stock pillar yet. Push the part of the wires that you
taped in between the side of the dash and the pillar.
10. Using a T-15 Torx bit, remove the two screws under the steering wheel.
(T-15 SCREWS UNDER STEERING WHEEL)
11. Pull out the gas/trunk button assembly and unplug the harnesses. Pull the panel out
towards you for it to unsnap. The opposite side has the engine start button. The wire going
to this button will need to be disconnected and then remove the panel from the vehicle.
(PULL OUT THIS BUTTON ASSEMBLY)
12. Locate the black 36-pin connector under the steering wheel. There are two yellow wires on
the harness. You will need to find out which one gets 12V when the key is set to "ON." Use
a test light or a volt meter to find the correct wire. When you have the correct wire, cut a
small strip of insulation off to solder and tape the red wire from the fuel gauge harness.
(You could also use a water resistant insulated crimp connector)
(USE A TEST LIGHT TO FIND THE CORRECT YELLOW WIRE)
13. Install a small ring terminal connector on the end of the ground wire. This needs to be
connected to a known good ground. We use a small self tapping screw to attach the wire to
the exposed metal cylinder on the left side of the 36-pin black harness.
(GROUND WIRE FIXED TO KNOWN GOOD GROUND)
14. Reach up behind the dash where the dimmer is located and disconnect the harness. Pull
the harness down and remove some of the electrical tape so you have room to connect to
one of the wires. Find the brown wire and cut a small strip of insulation off to solder and
tape the light wire from the gauges. (You could also use a water resistant insulated crimp
connector)
15. Remove the foot rest pedal by using a 10mm deep socket and wrench to remove the two
(2) nuts that hold the foot rest pedal.
16. Pull back on the plastic mat to reveal where the hood release wires enter the rubber
grommet. Drill a 7/8" hole about one inch below the cables.
(PEEL THIS FLAP BACK TO GAIN ACCESS FOR DRILLING)
17. Using a wire, coat hanger or fish tape, run the pressure sensor harness and nylon vacuum
line through the hole and into the engine bay. You will want the wires to come up by the
power brake booster assembly. Fill the hole around with silicone to create a waterproof
barrier.
18. Push the flap back down and reinstall the foot rest pedal. Reinstall the panel under the
steering wheel and reconnect the engine start button and the gas/trunk button harnesses
and reinsert into the panel.
19. Place the gauge pod over the stock pillar and find the best look and fit. Drill (4) 3/16" holes
and insert the small push pins that came with the pod. (you can get away with 3 if
necessary)
(3 PUSH PINS INSTALLED ON LEFT SIDE)
20. Place ¼" high temperature wire loom over the wires going to the fuel pressure sensor from
the harness all the way down to where the wires exit the passenger cabin.
(1/4" WIRE LOOM INSTALLED)
21. Go to the driver side fuel rail and unscrew the black plastic cap that is on the end. This cap
covers the Schrader valve.
(UNSCREW PLASTIC BLACK CAP)
22. Put a rag under the end of the rail to catch any fuel that may leak out. Bleed any remaining
fuel pressure by depressing the Schrader valve. Using a valve core removal tool or a small
blade screwdriver, remove the valve core.
(SCHRADER VALVE CORE REMOVED)
23. Connect the supplied -4 to 1/8" NPT swivel fitting to the end of the fuel rail. Apply a small
amount of thread sealant on the pressure sensor and connect the sensor to the swivel
fitting. Turn the key to the "ON" position to see if you have any leaks coming from the new
connections.
(FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR & SWIVEL FITTING ATTACED TO DRIVER SIDE FUEL RAIL)
24. Rout the fuel pressure sensor wiring harness to the fuel pressure sensor. Run under the
coolant reservoir and then along the positive wire coming out the back of the alternator.
(ZIP TIE THE WIRE LOOM OUT OF THE WAY)
25. Go to the power brake booster and mark a spot on the vacuum hose for the metal "T" to be
inserted. If you already have a "T" in this line from the blowoff valve installation section of
the supercharger kit, you will just need to insert a nylon "Y" fitting to the line going down to
the blowoff valve to attach the boost gauge vacuum hose.
(MARK THE HOSE AND CUT FOR THE "T")
("T" INSERTED AND VACUUM HOSE ATTACHED)
26. Check all lines and connections and then start the vehicle.
Courtesy of A & A Corvette Performance, Ltd.
Corvette C5 and C6 Seat Rebuild
| It is no secret that the seats of the Corvette C5 & C6 have a reputation for being less than satisfactory in the area comfort and support.
Over the last year or so, I've developed a repair process and want to share it with everyone. I wanted to see how it worked out in my car for a year and can say I feel its 100% better than OEM. There are two problems: The side bolsters from the factory do not have any support under them. So as you climb in/out of the seat, the outside bolster foam tears where it sits on the steel seat frame and quickly sags or goes flat. The steel wires in the center area cut into the foam and quickly cause the foam to sag and pinching around the hip area. I found this extremely uncomfortable after only 15 minutes. Send me an email if you would like more information. Here are the photos of a recent rebuild on my C6 seat. The C5 and C6 seats are basically the same under the cover. The information below is just the high points. 1. Unbolt seat.
2. Disconnect wires harness.
2. Remove seat belt.
3. Remove side controls, cut numerous hog rings, peal back Velcro, and until string holding bottom seat cover then pull out bottom seat cushion.
4. Using spray upholstery contact cement, attach new fabric to the underside of seat foam. The center support wires cut into the foam quickly causing the bottom seat cushion to sag. This returns the bottom seat foam to its original position.
5. Using spray contact cement, attach new high density upholstery grade foam to underside of bolster area. This adds the missing support under the bolsters. 6. Add jute pad on top of center support wires for additional firmness if desired. This is optional and you should try this out before reinstalling the seat to see if you like how it feels.
7. Reassembled and Finished.
8. Finished and reinstall.
Created my Mez from the Corvette Forum.
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